Free Potsdam Station by David Downing Page A

grave, Shchepkin’s had said how much he enjoyed cemeteries. ‘They make you think about life,’ he had said. ‘And its absurdities. Nobel probably thought his prizes would stop people associating him with dynamite, but of course the juxtaposition was too perfect – people who remember one always remember the other.’
    And then Shchepkin had half joked that some graves were a constant reproof, and that he lived near Moscow’s Novodevichy Cemetery, where Vladimir Mayakovsky, the Revolution’s most famous poet, was buried.
    Where was the Novodevichy Cemetery? The first three passers-by that Russell asked gave him looks of alarm and hurried on, but the fourth – an oldish man with a thumb-sucking child in tow – told him what he wanted to know: the cemetery was next to the monastery of the same name, an hour or so’s walk along the river. Or if he was in a hurry, he could walk straight down Kropotkin Street.
    Russell set off, walking west between the Kremlin and the river, and eventually found the head of Kropotkin Street. As he strode down the broad avenue, he remembered more of what Shchepkin had said. To reach Mayakovsky’s grave, it was necessary to pass Kropotkin’s. And Shchepkin often talked to them both. ‘I try to answer their criticisms of where the Revolution has taken us.’
    ‘And are they convinced?’ Russell had asked him with a grin.
    ‘Who knows?’ Shchepkin had admitted with an answering smile. Chekhov’s grave was another that gave him pause for thought. The playwright had died in 1904, the year before the first Russian Revolution, and had therefore missed the most tumultuous years of his country’s history. But Chekov’s own times had been just as compelling, just as challenging to him, as these times were for those who lived through them. ‘It might be a lifetime to us,’ Shchepkin said, ‘but no one experiences more than a brief span of history.’
    ‘So only history can judge itself,’ Russell had suggested, half ironically.
    ‘No, we have to make our own judgements. But we do so on insufficient evidence, and we should always bear that in mind.’ And having said that, Shchepkin had tried to persuade Russell that the Soviet Union should be his temporary home. Russell had told him he could never get used to the weather.
    No one could complain about it today – the sun was still shining in a mostly blue sky, and out of the slight breeze it actually felt warm. When he finally reached the unguarded gates of the Novodevichy Cemetery, the lure of a bench under shady trees proved irresistible. He sat for a while enjoying the sense of peace and beauty, the grey stones amidst the greenery, the golden onion domes of the adjacent monastery gleaming in the bright blue heavens. He thought about looking for Kropotkin, but the stones were myriad, and there was no one to ask.
    Outside again, he began the search for Shchepkin’s home. He remembered the Russian mentioning an apartment, but it soon became apparent that all the houses in the cemetery’s vicinity had been converted into flats. Most of the buildings looked at least a century old, and were quite beautiful – Russell found it easy to picture Tolstoy’s Natasha gazing rapturously out of one of the large bay windows, or dancing down a flight of steps to a waiting droshky .
    He began knocking on doors, expecting a long and probably fruitless afternoon. Several nervous rejections confirmed his pessimism, but then, at only the sixth or seventh attempt, he struck unexpected gold. A young man leaving by the front door simply held it open for him. ‘Number four,’ he said.
    It was on the first floor, at the back of the building. Russell’s knock was answered by a smartly dressed young woman. She was slim, with blonde hair and blue eyes, and looked about nineteen. She had her father’s mouth.
    ‘Yes?’ she asked, almost angrily. There was fear there, too.
    ‘My name is John Russell,’ he said. ‘I am looking for Yevgeny