Free Mastering the Craft of Making Sausage by Warren R. Anderson Page B

of continuing research.
    Several problems confound this research: Nitrates and nitrites occur naturally in human saliva, in vegetables, and quite often in drinking water. For example, celery, beets, and radishes contain between 2700 and 1600 PPM (parts per million) of nitrites. The ham and sausages commonly available at a grocery store will contain not more than 156 PPM of nitrites.
    Below is a summary of the most important considerations and conclusions made by researchers and government policymakers:
• The risk of botulism in some kinds of cured meat is very great. Nitrates and nitrites are the only palatable additives presently available that will positively prevent this often-deadly form of food poisoning.
• Though nitrosamines can cause cancer in test animals, it is not clear whether they will cause cancer in humans.
• Tests on commercially prepared products occasionally show trace amounts of nitrosamines, but the amounts detected are much lower than the amount that would be required to cause cancer in test animals.
    The net result is that the danger from botulism is a real danger if these chemicals were to be banned. The degree of danger from nitrosamines posed by the continued use of these chemicals is unknown. Actually, there may be no danger at all. Considering these points, it was decided to continue to permit these chemicals to be used in some products (bacon, for example), and to mandate that they be used when there is a clear botulism hazard (smoked sausage in casing, for example). At the same time, however, they placed many restrictions on the usage of these chemicals in order to minimize the risk of exposure to nitrosamines. This approach allowed the continued production of traditionally cured products, preserved the protection against botulism offered by nitrates and nitrites, and minimized the exposure to carcinogens.
    One significant restriction is that nitr ates  (not nitr ites ) are banned for all products, except fermented sausage and products cured with traditional dry cure. (Such products undergo a lengthy curing process, so the slower dissipation rate of nitrates is required.) Another change was that the amount of nitrites permitted in various categories of foods was reduced.
    Of course, the U. S. government cannot prevent an amateur sausage maker from using nitrates and, furthermore, can’t regulate the amount  of any  additive he or she uses. Nevertheless, since the federal regulations for the commercial use of nitrites and nitrates are for protecting our health, it is in our interest to follow those regulations to the extent possible. Consequently, nitrates are not specified for use in any sausage curing procedure in this book because fermented sausage formulations and processes are not presented.
    Government regulations for commercial products specify nitrite content in  parts per million  (PPM), and the required or permissible amount differs according to the product. For example, more nitrite is required in sausage than is allowed in bacon. Since few of us have the equipment or expertise to measure nitrite in PPM, we will rely on the commercial curing powders—these curing powders must also meet federal regulations. Used as directed, they are formulated to give you a product that will be within government regulations—a product that will positively prevent botulism and pose zero to minimal risk from nitrosamine exposure.

CHAPTER 5
    Grinding, Mixing, and Stuffing
    Preparing the Meat
    Note: Before reading this section, it might be helpful to review the “Meat” section in Chapter 3.
    T he meat to be ground for sausage should be fresh and well chilled—but not frozen. A little more meat than the recipe requires should be prepared to allow for trimming waste.
    Trimming and cutting should be done on a clean plastic cutting board; cutting boards made of wood can harbor bacteria. With a boning knife, remove all blood clots, bone, and as much connective tissue as possible. It is