Mario, a huge,
excitable Italian—he was like a city policeman with operatic
gestures— and the other, a hairy, uncouth animal whom we
called the Magyar; I think he was a Transylvanian, or some-
thing even more remote. Except the Magyar we were all big
men, and at the rush hours we collided incessantly.
The work in the cafeterie was spasmodic. We were nev-
er idle, but the real work only came in bursts of two hours
at a time—we called each burst ‘UN COUP DE FEU’. The
first COUP DE FEU came at eight, when the guests upstairs
began to wake up and demand breakfast. At eight a sud-
den banging and yelling would break out all through the
basement; bells rang on all sides, blue-aproned men rushed
through the passages, our service lifts came down with a
simultaneous crash, and the waiters on all five floors began
shouting Italian oaths down the shafts. I don’t remember
all our duties, but they included making tea, coffee and
chocolate, fetching meals from the kitchen, wines from the
cellar and fruit and so forth from the dining-room, slicing
bread, making toast, rolling pats of butter, measuring jam,
opening milk-cans, counting lumps of sugar, boiling eggs,
cooking porridge, pounding ice, grinding coffee—all this
for from a hundred to two hundred customers. The kitchen
was thirty yards away, and the dining-room sixty or seventy
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1
yards. Everything we sent up in the service lifts had to be
covered by a voucher, and the vouchers had to be carefully
filed, and there was trouble if even a lump of sugar was lost.
Besides this, we had to supply the staff with bread and cof-
fee, and fetch the meals for the waiters upstairs. All in all, it
was a complicated job.
I calculated that one had to walk and run about fifteen
miles during the day, and yet the strain of the work was
more mental than physical. Nothing could be easier, on the
face of it, than this stupid scullion work, but it is astonish-
ingly hard when one is in a hurry. One has to leap to and
fro between a multitude of jobs—it is like sorting a pack of
cards against the clock. You are, for example, making toast,
when bang! down comes a service lift with an order for tea,
rolls and three different kinds of jam, and simultaneous-
ly bang! down comes another demanding scrambled eggs,
coffee and grapefruit; you run to the kitchen for the eggs
and to the dining-room for the fruit, going like lightning
so as to be back before your toast bums, and having to re-
member about the tea and coffee, besides half a dozen other
orders that are still pending; and at the same time some
waiter is following you and making trouble about a lost bot-
tle of soda-water, and you are arguing with him. It needs
more brains than one might think. Mario said, no doubt
truly, that it took a year to make a reliable cafetier.
The time between eight and half past ten was a sort of
delirium. Sometimes we were going as though we had only
five minutes to live; sometimes there were sudden lulls
when the orders stopped and everything seemed quiet for a
Down and Out in Paris and London
moment. Then we swept up the litter from the floor, threw
down fresh sawdust, and swallowed gallipots of wine or cof-
fee or water—anything, so long as it was wet. Very often
we used to break off chunks of ice and suck them while we
worked. The heat among the gas-fires was nauseating; we
swallowed quarts of drink during the day, and after a few
hours even our aprons were drenched with sweat. At times
we were hopelessly behind with the work, and some of the
customers would have gone without their breakfast, but
Mario always pulled us through. He had worked fourteen
years in the cafeterie, and he had the skill that never wastes
a second between jobs. The Magyar was very stupid and I
was inexperienced, and Boris was inclined to shirk, partly
because of his lame leg, partly because he was ashamed of
working in the cafeterie