Free Mother of Purl by Edith Eig, Caroline Greeven Page B

moments to make sure the edges of the sweater where you will be seaming are fully aligned. Using straight pins, pin the edges together as close to the edge as possible.
Thread embroidery floss or yarn through a darning needle that is similar in color to your knitting yarn, and insert the needle through both layers of knitting at the bottom of the sweater. Backstitch several times to secure your thread. Now work up the sides, always backstitching as you go.

THREE–NEEDLE BIND–OFF
     
    Although most patterns suggest binding off the shoulders and then sewing them together, I prefer the three–needle bind–off method because it results in a smooth, clean, and invisible shoulder seam. It’s also much easier to do. There is nothing more unsightly than a bulky shoulder seam. Remember to take into account that you must knit the stitches for the shoulder that would have otherwise been cast off.
    When you’ve finished the back and front of your sweater, don’t bind off the shoulders. Instead, place those stitches on a stitch holder, leaving a long tail of yarn about four times the length of your shoulder to knit the shoulders together, then cut the yarn. With the right sides of the sweater facing each other, replace the stitch holders with your knitting needles,taking care to make sure the two points of the needle are facing the same direction. Take a third needle to join the shoulders together. Insert the third needle into the first stitch of the other two needles and knit them together. Next, knit the second two stitches together. When you have two stitches on your right–hand needle, bind them off. Repeat across the row, binding off as you go. Note that the needles replacing the stitch holders function as holders themselves, so you can use a different size needle as long as your third needle is the same size you used to knit your sweater.

     
    Ah, success! You’ve successfully completed your very first sweater. Congratulations. Everyone’s quite impressed with your work. Only you seem to notice that it needs some minor adjustments: it could have been a bit roomier in the body, or perhaps you want the seams pressed. There is a simple solution. It’s called blocking.
    [ EDITH KNIT TIPS ]
    Stitch Holders
    When using stitch holders, it’s a good idea to turn them upside down on your work so that should it open up accidentally, your stitches won’t fall off.

     
     

BLOCKING
     
    Blocking is the process by which you dampen your finished garment with cold water and, pinning it onto a towel, gently stretch it until it dries in the shape that the pattern called for.
    Find a large flat area to lay out your towel and garment where it can remain undisturbed for at least a day. If it’s exposed to sunshine, so much the better—it will help to dry your sweater even faster—but avoid direct light as it might fade the color. Special blocking boards are also available for purchase, but this is not essential. What is essential is stainless steel T–shaped blocking pins. These are heavier than ordinary straight pins you might use in sewing, and they won’t rust.
    Here are few tips to help you learn to block:
I recommend you use the schematic from your pattern as a guide. Or, if you prefer, you can take one of your favorite sweaters that is similar in shape as a guide to block your garment.Lay the damp sweater on the towel and pin out the shoulders, starting from the center. Make sure your pins don’t push through the actual material, but rather just through the yarn loops at the edge of the sweater, and take care to use enough pins to ensure that your yarn won’t stretch unevenly.
If you want to make your sweater a little wider or longer, gently pull the sweater either outward or downward as you pin along the top, sides, and bottom. While you are pulling it into shape, remember to
ease
the sweater, rather than tugging on it roughly. Refer back to your schematic or guide sweater as you go.
    Once you’ve finished blocking your