Free French Classics Made Easy by Richard Grausman Page A

51 ) or Mousseline Ring with Seafood (facing page); or it can be spoon-molded to make quenelles or small dumplings (see “Spoon-Molding Dumplings,” page 71 ) and served with the Tomato-Flavored Velouté ( sauce aurore, page 316 ) or saffron Sauce with Fresh Tomatoes ( page 317 ). You can use the mousseline plain or change its flavor and appearance by adding chopped truffles and chopped fresh herbs.
    Before molding or using the mousseline, you should test its consistency by poaching a teaspoonful in a saucepan of simmering water. It should hold its shape, yet not be too firm or springy when eaten.
    SERVES 8 TO 10
1 pound skinless, boneless firm-fleshed white fish (such as flounder, cod, or tilapia), cut into 2-inch chunks
1 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined (see Note)
4 egg whites
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2½ cups heavy cream
    1. Place the fish and shrimp in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process the fish until it becomes a gummy paste.
    2. Add the egg whites, one by one, and process until the mixture is very smooth. Blend in the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. With the machine running, add 2 cups of cream quickly in a steady stream. Turn off the processor as soon as the cream is incorporated. Too much processing at this point can cause the cream to turn to butter.
    3. Place the fish mixture in a bowl and place the bowl in a larger bowl containing ice and a little water. Stirring occasionally, let the mixture sit until cold (about 5 minutes); once cold it will stiffen and hold more cream. Stir in the remaining cream a little at a time. Poach a spoonful of the mixture to determine if it needs more seasoning, egg white, or cream. If it’s too firm and springy, it needs more cream; if it’s soft, add a little more egg white. (The mousseline can be made up to one day in advance. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.)
    NOTE
    You can omit the shrimp if you want and use 2 pounds of fish. The mousseline will have a somewhat grainer texture.
    IN ADDITION
    Unless you have tasted a hand-pounded mousseline, you would not notice that one made with a processor is a little grainy instead of being silky smooth. To improve the texture of mousseline made in a processor, I occasionally use the plastic blade instead of the metal one. In effect, the duller plastic blade pounds the fish instead of cutting it. However, a mousseline made this way must then be forced through a food mill to eliminate any bones or tendons. To me, the end results are noticeably smoother; however, I go to this extra effort only for very special occasions.
    When choosing a fish to use for a mousseline, look for the freshest possible. The fresher the fish, the better the mousseline will be. Look for thick fillets from large fish, which hold their freshness longer than thin ones.
VARIATION
    F ISH T ERRINE
    [TERRINE DE POISSON]
    Follow the instructions for constructing the Home-Style Terrine with Prunes ( page 54 ), using the uncooked fish mousseline in place of the ground meats. Use lightly poached salmon, lobster, or sea scallops in place of the strips of ham and chicken. Bake like the terrine in a 400°F oven until springy to the touch, about 1 hour.
    MOUSSELINE RING
WITH S EAFOOD IN A S AFFRON- T OMATO S AUCE
    [TURBAN DE FRUITS DE MER]
    A spectacular presentation can be created by molding a fish mousseline in a ring mold. When baked and unmolded, the ring, or “turban,” is filled with seafood and topped with one of several highly refined sauces. A classic turban is made by first lining the mold with fillets of sole. I find that this adds neither contrast of texture and color nor a smoother surface to the dish. And because it is time consuming and expensive, I have eliminated that aspect of the dish.
    Although I have specified the use of small shrimp and bay scallops, if sea scallops are fresher, use them along with medium-size shrimp. Oysters can be used in place of or in addition to