doesn’t actually matter that much, as most of your value will come from making your opponent fold pre-flop or winning with a continuation bet on the flop. What is most important here is what percentage of your opponent’s raising range he will fold pre-flop, and how often he will fold on the flop if he does call. Since we know this player is aggressive, he will probably fold a decent amount of his hands pre-flop, so re-raising with a wide range is probably a good play, as long as you do not abuse it. So, you can re-raise with literally any two cards in this spot, although I wouldn’t suggest playing quite so loose. I would re-raise 9-9+, A-K, A-10 to A-2, K-J to K-9, Q-9+, J-8+, 10-7+ and random suited cards like K-5s and 8-6s. Notice that I suggest just calling with some strong hands, namely A-Q, A-J, K-Q, small pairs and suited connectors. It would be a disaster to raise one of these hands and be forced off a hand with a lot of equity by a re-raise. Besides, it is usually best to just call with small pairs and good suited connectors, as they flop too well to turn them into a bluff.
If called, you should make a continuation bet on every flop, as you are representing a strong hand by re-raising pre-flop. Again, do not go overboard with these plays or they will become unprofitable. If your opponent knows you are going to re-raise with a wide range, he will start calling with a wider range, or even four-bet, which is never good when you have a bad hand. Note also that while you can re-raise with A-x, don’t just call, because you will often be dominated. Either re-raise or fold hands that tend to have large reverse implied odds, such as A-8, K-10 and Q-10. These hands are basically stone bluffs. Even if you hit a decent hand like top pair, if your opponent is willing to put in a lot of money, your top pair with bad kicker is almost always behind and should be folded.
Against a standard opponent who raises a moderate amount from late position, I re-raise less often as a bluff than I would re-raise aggressive players. I will re-raise him once or twice to see how often he defends his initial raise. The first time you re-raise someone, you will almost always get credit for a big hand. You should first re-raise with a fairly weak hand because you don’t want your opponent to play back. Later, when you pick up a real hand, your opponents will think you are a maniac because this will be at least the second time you have re-raised. My second or third re-raise will be with A-9+, K-10+, Q-10+, 9-9+ and some random suited connectors. Hands as weak as A-9 are still in my re-raising range because having an ace in your hand decreases the likelihood that your opponent holds an ace, weakening his opening range. Again, always have some weaker hands in your range. You want your opponent to second-guess himself, which leads to mistakes. To sum up, you should re-raise hands you don’t want to see a flop with because of reverse implied odds, hands that flop decently but not well enough to normally call a raise, and hands that are much better than your opponent’s raising range.
One other option is to re-raise an initial raiser fairly small, with the intention of continuation-betting every flop with a range of hands made up of monsters and weak hands. Suppose someone raises from middle position and you have K-6or 9-7on the button. You can re-raise to around 2.5 times the initial raise. He will most likely call, and you can take him off every flop he misses with a bet of around 2/3 pot. I usually only make this play against straightforward players who can’t resist seeing a cheap flop but will play poorly afterwards.
Fold any hand not listed above if someone raises in front of you. Even in position, you should rarely play hands like K-2 unless your opponent will check-fold every time he misses the flop, which you will not encounter too often in today’s games. If you are lucky enough to run into one of these