the Moroccan passport makes it difficult to actually live or work anywhere else.â
âSo youâve never lived in England or the States?â I said, completely amazed by her English.
âThatâs my dreamâto find my way to New York or London,â she said with a shy smile. âBut with the exception of France, Iâve never been out of Morocco.â
âThen how on earth did you get so good at my language?â
âI studied it at university. I watched all the American and British films and television shows that I could. I read many novels.â
âWhatâs your favorite American novel?â
âI really liked The Catcher in the Rye  . . . not that I completely understood it.â
âWhat didnât you understand?â
âAll the local New York references. I tried looking many of them up. Whatâs that place he goes to see the Christmas show?â
âRadio City Music Hall.â
âThe dancers are acting out . . . what do they call the birth of your savior?â
I found myself laughing.
âItâs called the Nativity, and the dancers dressed up like people from the Holy Land are called the Rockettes.â
âIs there a French word for âRockettesâ?â she asked.
âNo, the Rockettes are truly beyond translation.â
I told her about having first learned French in Canada, and how I was here with my artist husband this summer and was very determined to rejuvenate my French in four weeks.
âBut you speak it well already,â she said.
âYouâre being far too kind.â
âIâm being accurateâthough a foreign language is one you must continue to work at, otherwise it does fade from memory.â
She asked me how Iâd found my way to Essaouira. She was interested to know about Paulâs time in Morocco over thirty years ago, and where we lived in the States, and might Buffalo be a place that she would like?
âBuffalo is not what one would call a particularly cosmopolitan or elegant city.â
âBut you live there.â
Now it was my turn to blush.
âWhere you end up may not be where you wished to live,â I said.
Shutting her eyes for a moment, she bowed her head and nodded agreement.
âSo, if I wanted to regain fluency in French in a month, how many hours a week would I need?â I asked.
âThat depends on your schedule.â
âI have no schedule here. No obligations, no commitments, no pressing engagements. And you?â
âI teach at what you would call âlower school.â Children between the ages of six and nine. But I am free from five oâclock onward every afternoon.â
âIf I were to suggest two hours a day . . .â
âCould you afford three hours?â she asked.
âWhat would you charge per hour?â
Now she turned an even deeper shade of crimson.
âYou donât have to be shy about this,â I said. âItâs just moneyâand itâs best to get these things settled at the beginning.â
God, how American I sounded. Cards on the table. Name your price and letâs talk.
After a moment or two she said, âWould seventy-five dirhams per hour be too much?â
Seventy-five dirhams was around ten dollars. Immediately I said, âI think thatâs too little.â
âBut I donât want to ask for more.â
âBut I want to offer more. Would you accept one hundred and twenty-five dirhams per hour?â
She looked shocked. âThatâs almost two thousand dirhams a week.â
âTrust me, if it was not affordable for me I would tell you.â
âOkay, then.â She looked away but now with a small smile on her face. âWhere shall we do the lessons?â
âI have a suite upstairs. Iâll have to check with my husbandâbut I think that should be fine.â
âAnd if I may ask . . . what do