here that the thirty-year-old philosopher proposed to the eighteen-year-old girl, it was here that he outlined the whole scenario of Zarathustra! Once one has read of the notebooks in which they played question-and-answer games and riddles based on philosophic questions it seems quite possible that passages of the great classic could actually have been written by her. The idea, however far-fetched, intrigued me. And with this end in mind I obtained a commission from an American paper to write a vignette on the Borromean Islands which lay hard by on the the larger lake, Maggiori. âHow odd!â I said, and she echoed me, âWhy odd?â I said that I was doing the same sort of thing and added, âI am going down to Orta next Sunday for a week. I want to see the little lake where they were so happy when they were young. I have some notions about her making a contribution to Zarathustra â which I shall never be able to check because I have no German.â
âOrta?â She was looking at me very strangely indeed; then she started to laugh. âLook,â she said. âI have just come from the station.â And extracting from her bag a railway reservation she placed it before me on the table. I saw it was a return ticket to Stresa which I knew was, so to speak, the railhead for the lake of Orta. The date was for the following weekend! The coincidence was unbelievable and we both laughed.
âI want to visit the little sacred hill with all the chapels to try and see which was the one in which he proposed to her only to be rejected â quite properly; he was not fit to be married to a woman and she would have made a wretched wife, always on the move, always disappearing.â
âThe Monte Sacro?â
âYes. I have never been.â
âNor have I.â
I produced a travel brochure with some pictures of the lake, and she produced an identical one.
âBut your ticket is a single â are you alone?â
âYes.â
âThen can we meet? Shall we meet?â
âOf course. I will bring the books I have.â
âYes, so shall I.â
It was one of these strange encounters which are all too rare in life and which make it echo. We shook hands rather awkwardly as we said goodbye; the blue regard set up a memory in me of some half-forgotten poem which mentioned the âvernal twinkling of butterfliesâ in Coleridge â I had tried in vain to trace the quotation; nor could I now remember who had written the poem. All I remembered of the blonde girl now was the blue regard of a fixed star, staring down from mid-heaven upon the smooth lake. In my absent-minded way I had forgotten even to write down her name and phone number â in case of any change of plan. It was better perhaps. It gave her a kind of anonymity. I motored back to Provence during the night to collect my affairs and make my dispositions for Italy. I did not intend to rush it, and in my little camper I could easily make Novarra in one day; I would dawdle, I thought, round Maggiori and landfall at The Dragon in Orta well before Saturday. Then I would meet her train at Stresa â though she did not know this as yet!
5
So it fell out. I crossed the wide plain of Novarra one late afternoon; all the corn had caught alight on both sides of the road and a racing fire seemed to stretch away to the horizon on either side of me. It was a dramatic vision of destruction! But it was so very hot that I did not linger but raced through, fearing an exploding petrol tank or some such mishap. After a very few more kilometres the green Alpine meadows and foothills started to rise ahead of me and suddenly it was there â a modest green signpost directing me to the tiny kidney-shaped lake I was hunting for: Nietzscheâs Orta. (âOur Ortaâ he had written in a love letter to Lou.) The approaches grew narrower, more sinuous, and densely wooded â nightingales sang everywhere, just as