him down in a folding chair out of the wind, between boulders, facing the sea. I stuck an umbrella fixed to a long pole in the sand, supplied him with water and lemonade, a makeshift oasis.
âI have mixed feelings about the ocean,â he said when he had settled in. âSome days I have real affection for it. Other days I feel otherwise.â I walked back and forth along the beach, taking notes on what late-staying sea and shore birds I could find, checking identifications against my field guide. When I got back to Isador, he said, âIâve been thinking. Now that weâre out here, can you arrange for a nice duck for supper? Iâm in good standing with the hotel chef.â
âMaybe next time,â I said. âIâm going to sit with you for a while, then I have to walk to the marshâthatâs the actual place Iâm commissioned to write about. Are you going to be all right?â
âYou put too much sugar in the lemonade,â he said. âYou know, I look at the ocean and I think, I never learned to swim. Lucky thing I didnât fall off the boat that brought me to Canada. Some people, and I saw this with my own eyes, jumped off the ship halfway between there and here. No matter how bad things had gotten for them before, they figured it was going to get worse.â
âYou donât know all the reasons, Isador.â
âIâm only saying, I saw it with my own eyes.â
I sat drinking lemonade with him, talking about this and that.
âThis is a comfortable chair you provided for me here,â he said. âIf I ever get to go on an ocean cruise, Iâd like this chair. Do they let you bring your own chairs?â
âI donât know.â
âComing over from Europe, thatâs not what Iâd call an ocean cruise.â
âNo, I guess not, Isador.â
âI had a change of clothing and my childhood menorah. Thatâs it.â
âYou told me.â
âThat was a rough passage. Nobody knew their fates. Nobody knew what was what. What was this place Canada, anyway? Still, Jewish children from many countries were conceived on shipboard those weeks. How anyone found privacy on that ship beats me. A hotel, now thatâs a different story. But a ship full of refugeesâreally something, donât you think?â
âYes, I do. Would you like to get back to the city now?â
âYou said you had more you needed to look at.â
âI can come back, if youâre too tired.â
âIn a little while. This umbrella is nice. Let me ask you something. Whatâs with you and birds, anyway? I donât understand.â
âI look at those sea ducks and I wonder where they go at the end of a day.â
âWhatâs the mystery? At the end of the day they go home. Whatâs there to figure out?â
âWant to look at sea ducks through these binoculars? They have beautiful faces.â
âI prefer the pigeons of my Russian youth. I close my eyes and see them. For this I donât need binoculars.â
âIâll be back in an hour, probably. No more than two.â
Â
Later that October, Mathilde and I drove out to Peggyâs Cove, mainly to walk on the beach, catch the last autumn sun, and have lunch at the Oyster Café. In the car, I offered the fact of my having been at the Woodstock music festival back in August as a bona fide of worldliness. This didnât have the effect Iâd hoped for. Mathilde listened intently, as focused as a stenographer who would be responsible for reading back a transcript, as I described what Iâd seen and heard in the muddy fields and hills of Yasgurâs upstate New York property. I dropped the names of musicians, some of whom I saw perform: Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, the Incredible String Band, Richie Havens, Canned Heat, the Who, Joan Baez, and Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young. I mentioned that I saw a lot of people making love