Oceanâ or . . . ?â
âOkay, yes, there are sharks in the Pacific Ocean somewhere but I donât thinkââ
âCould you be a little more specific about the word somewhere ?â
âOliver,â I said. There was the flinch again. âIf Patrick Swayze saw a shark, what doyou think he would have done?â
âI also didnât foresee this surf lesson involving that question.â
âPatrick Swayze would punch that shark in the nose,â I answered for him. âAnd thatâs what I will do for you, okay?â
âFor me?â He put his hand to his chest and pretended to be flattered.
âI told you, Iâm a loyal friend. Kicking therapists, punching sharks, whatever it takes.â
âOkay,â he finally said. âLetâs do this.â
âGreat,â I said. âNow letâs see what youâre made of.â
âI bet thatâs what the sharks are saying right now,â Oliver muttered, but he paddled out behind me.
He had strong arms, it turned out, and the waves were flat enough that it wasnât too hard to get past them and out to a few bigger swells. âWhat do you do if the waves are big when youâre paddling out?â he asked when I pointed that out.
âYou turtle,â I replied, then held on to the sides of my boards and flipped it over just as a slightly bigger wave crashed over me. The board protected me from the wave and I waited until I felt the whoosh of the water recede before I turned over and came back up. âSee?â I sputtered, wiping my hair out of my eyes. âLike a turtle. Your board becomes a shell to protect you.â
âPretty cool,â Oliver said. He looked impressed.
âLucky for you, these are baby waves.â We continued to paddle out and when we were far enough, I hopped off my board and went to swim next to him. âDo you remember what we practiced on the shore?â
âYeah, it happened, like, three minutes ago.â
I just smiled. âItâs amazing what you can forget when a giant force of nature is rushing toward you.â
âThatâs . . . really reassuring, thanks.â
âI like to provide a dose of realism,â I said, then watched as a wave started to build about fifty feet away from us. âYou see this wave?â
Oliver craned his neck to look over his shoulder. âWhat wave? Is that even a wave?â
âIt will be. And itâs going to be your wave.â
Oliver just looked at me. âYouâre serious.â
âLike a heart attack. Iâll give you a shove. Now, just before the wave hits you, start paddling. Paddle likeââI had a burst of geniusââlike a shark is after you, all right? Just go until you feel the wave pick up the board, then use your arms to pop up. Easy peasy.â
Oliverâs eyes widened. âTell me again why you do this for fun?â
âBecause itâs awesome!â I told him as the wave came closer. âAre you ready?â
âNo! Yes!â
âGo go go go go GO!â I gave the tail of his board a shove just as the wave started to crest, and Oliver began to paddle furiously, his hands going in and out of the water at an impressive speed. âFaster!â I yelled as he started to cruise away from me. âYou can do it! Stand up, stand up!â
âWhat?â I heard him yell, but then he let out a shout, like a battle cry or a victory sound, and I watched as Oliver . . . did nothing.
âStand up!â I yelled. âYou can do it!â
I heard him yell something but I couldnât hear him this time, and I climbed back up on my board just so I could see a little better. He was laughing at least, his hair wet across his forehead as he literally lay on top of his board until it ground into the shore and got stuck in the sand. I caught the next wave, taking advantage of the white water so I