or breaking up altogether. Neither of us was quite ready or willing to disband the safe and comfortable partnership weâd built together, so weâd eventually kiss and make up, fading our confrontations into the background for weeks on end.
Each time Iâd believed that the answers would just have to reveal themselves over the course of the year, but as the monthsticked by, it became painfully clear that no mythical relationship fairy was going to sprinkle magic dust over us. Suddenly, the round-the-world trip that Amanda, Holly, and I had fantasized about at Iguazú Falls felt like my salvation from a precarious and uncertain future. Iâd been dating the same guy for nearly half a decade and still wasnât sure if âtill death do us partâ would ever roll off our tongues. Maybe some distanceâfrom Brian, from New York City, from the status quoâwas the only way to know for certain.
I longed to feel as inspired and alive as I had when Iâd made the radical move to Manhattan with only two suitcases and a sliver of space on Amandaâs living room floor. And since I never wanted to feel as if Iâd given something up to get married and settle down, it was now or never to do something drastic. So from the second Iâd told the girls I was in, Iâd never had a momentâs pause about committing to the trip.
Itâs not to say that the long road to departure hadnât been a bumpy one. But since boarding up my Manhattan life weeks agoâall that was left of my earthly possessions wedged in my parentâs minivanâIâd felt only giddiness and enthusiastic anticipation for the journey to come. And though I figured pangs of fear or sorrow, even regret might rear their ugly heads eventually, right now I was happy to pretend that Amanda, Holly, and I were merely embarking on another extraordinary South American vacation. Luckily, Amanda returned with good news: Hollyâs bags were on the next flight from Miami and would be delivered to our hostel that night. With that, the three of us finally escaped the baggage area and headed toward our first of many customs lines.
Â
A fter a perfunctory two-day sweep of Limaâour designated hub during our six-week Peruvian samplerâwefound ourselves back at the airport. Travel weariness mostly alleviated and three backpacks tucked safely into the belly of a tiny local aircraft, Amanda, Holly, and I began the 350-mile journey to Cusco.
Perched among the clouds high in the Andes, the ancient âCity of the Sunâ was infinitely more breathtaking than weâd imagined. We reached the town center just as dawn began to wriggle its way through the frosted mountain peaks. Emerging from the dingy airport shuttle into the sun-soaked Plaza de Armas, we felt like Dorothy and Toto first discovering Technicolor. A vibrant kaleidoscope of emerald-painted fountains, freshly pruned flower gardens exploding with every color, lollipop peddlers, and rosy-cheeked âmunchkinsâ swaddled in patchwork shawls twirled around us.
The Baroque-style Cusco Cathedral and historic Church of La CompañÃa de Jesús stood watch over the cobblestone square. Rainbow-striped flags soared above whitewashed buildings with sapphire and cobalt blue doorways. Shrunken grandmothers in traditional Quechua garb coaxed llamas into touristsâ photos in exchange for a few soles. One thing was for sure: Cusco was certainly no place like home.
Eager to shed our forty-pound portable closets and do some exploring, we yanked out our Letâs Go Peru to find directions to Loki hostel, a supposed backpackersâ paradise Iâd booked online weeks before. Following a crude street map, we slowly navigated the narrow brick roads until we reached a steep, crumbling staircase that stretched endlessly toward the crystal blue skyline. A staggering 11,000 feet (estimated) above sea level, Cuscoâs dramatically high elevation could
Dean Wesley Smith, Kristine Kathryn Rusch
Martin A. Lee, Bruce Shlain