My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking

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Authors: Carol Wellman
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trail was quite rough in places, with marvelous views of northern mountains and evergreens, white barked trees, and sweet smelling lupine. Rare cloudless skies and moderating temperatures sweetened the adventure. Horses with riders were very common, yet they seemed to have little, if any, regard for hikers. Even though we hiked on narrow ledges, they kept right on coming towards us. Horses have the right of way, yet time is needed to find a safe place to step aside. I quickly learned to scramble down hill, off trail, hoping for enough distance between us to avoid kicks by startled horses. 
        Thru-hikers were catching up to us now. One group of three young men was so compatible they were still cooking and eating out of the same pot after 2,000 miles. They still shared their 10 x 10 ft. tarp. We exchanged trail news and stories with them. They would bring news of us ahead, and we would have their reports for those who caught up. We talked of the water in northern California, solutions to the cattle problems (a .357 Magnum was mentioned), inquired after the welfare of hikers ahead and behind, traded incredible stories of animals, hardships, sickness, and plummeting down 59 switchbacks. Each hiker is like a small town newspaper. The more trail gossip, editorials, weather predictions, current events and not so current, the better.
       It rains quite often in Oregon. Overcast and chilly, I hiked with 3 layers on top, shorts and rain pants. The silnylon jacket did a great job keeping out the wind and rain. The attached silnylon mittens worn over fleece gloves kept my hands warm. Rainmaker was wearing Nike sandals, with Smart Wool socks, both he bought in Bend. Due to a foot injury suffered the first day hiking from Crater Lake, his New Balance Shoes were causing extreme pain. These sandals replaced the shoes and allowed us to go on, over snow and glaciers. I noticed his sandals never got heavier, because the water just drained away, but my high tops with shoe inserts grew heavier and completely water logged. A sharp pain developed in my instep every time I climbed with this additional stress. In the mornings he dried his sandals, and started out with dry feet. My shoes never dried completely for days on end. This is how I got my bright idea of hiking the Appalachian Trail in sandals.
       Ollalie Lake Resort, reportedly quite similar to Shelter Cove, was our next resupply stop.
       “Maybe they’ll have some decent deals. Like ramen, 2 for a dollar. Or, buy one oatmeal, get one free.” Rainmaker quietly considered my banter, and I continued, “Maybe like a free motel room with the purchase of every ramen.” Rain turned and gave me an incredulous
     
    Reunited and on to Canada
    look. We silently regarded each other a few moments. "Ok, maybe not." I conceded.
      When we arrived, we found limited food, but expensive. A microwave was available to the public, so I made popcorn. Hot coffee, and hot water were free. Ramen was 75 cents.  There were bagels, muffins and pastries for a dollar each. At times like this, one must be creative. We asked to see the hiker box and found a plastic jar of unopened peanut butter, a few packages of oatmeal, and some powdered energy drink. While I sorted through the hiker box, Rainmaker was making friends. One local hiker, leaving the next day because of bad weather, offered his food to Rainmaker, who accepted graciously. Most small convenience stores have candy bars and snack chips. This one also had two loaves of bread behind a glass door. I selected the potato bread. With peanut butter, that would be our lunch. Then I noticed a bit of green mold starting on the crust, so instead of charging the $3.59 cents, the owner gave it to me. 
      Rainmaker and I took some time on the front porch to split up our finds, examine our food bags, eat, and plan the rest of the resupply.  At times like this, it isn’t so much variety, as volume. And, money isn’t very important when you are cold and

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