twisted and crossed over like bobbin lace.â
Jessica asked, âHow sure can you be? Couldnât it be something else? Tatting, maybe? Or crochet?â
Alice looked sharply at Jessica, then said with an air of being patient with her, âNo, itâs not the loop, loop, loop of crochet.â She looked at the blank faces of the other women and continued, âIf you found the end of this and pulled, it wouldnât all come undone, would it? So itâs not crochet. And itâs not tatting, I canât see anything like those circles you get in tatting. But there are twists and weaving in it, and they look like bobbin lace patterns to me.â She bent over the fragment under glass again, this time so closely there was barely room for the magnifying glass. âHere, for example, this must have been ground. And here, what do you think, Patricia, the petal of a flower, maybe?â
Patricia looked, the small neatness of her a strong contrast to the large woman bent over the glass. âI see what you mean, I think.â
Alice said, pointing with a thick forefinger, âBut all along here, the threads have been broken. And here, see how itâs pulled; this thread is thinned out to nothing here and here itâs thicker and there itâs thin again. Same with these. I never saw thread do that before.â
She looked accusingly at Malloy, who shrugged. âItâs silk, if thatâs any help. A textile expert says if you put animal fibers under pressure under water for a long time, they will stretch. And silkâs from worms, which are animals.â
Patricia, still looking at the sample, nodded. âYou know, I think youâre right, Alice; itâs not just pulled crosswise, the thread itself is stretched, and not evenly.â
Alice said, âYes, that alone makes it impossible to see what the pattern was.â She moved the magnifying glass along the fabric. âThough here, I think this was a line of picots. I donât think this was torchon. Hmmm, binche?â
âBench?â echoed Betsy.
âNo, binche, a kind of bobbin lace. Well, maybe not. Itâs too damaged to tell for sure.â She put the magnifying glass down and sat back again. âThatâs all I can tell you.â
Malloy said, notebook in hand, âBut youâre absolutely sure itâs bobbin lace?â Alice nodded, and he wrote that down. âIs that a common kind of thing? I mean, lots of women knit and crochet. Do lots of women do bobbin lace?â
âNo,â Alice said.
âThe question is,â said Betsy, âdid women make bobbin lace back in 1949?â
âOh, yes,â nodded Alice. âI was making it back then, and I wasnât the only one. I learned it as a child; my Grandma brought it from the old country. My mother wasnât interested, so Grandma taught me. Itâs very difficult to learn from a book, you just about have to have someone show you, so I doubt thereâs been a time since it was invented hundreds and hundreds of years ago that someone hasnât been doing it.â
âSo I guess the patterns have all been passed along, too,â said Betsy.
Alice nodded. âOf course, you can make up your own, too. Some people make lace into pictures, like of flowers or animals or trees. You can take a picture with a nice, easy outline, like from a coloring book, and make it into lace. I once saw a Batman, the lace maker handled the cape real nice, all lines and shading. But mostly you do geometrical patterns, repeats of flowers or leaves.â
âWere more women or fewer doing it back then?â
Alice considered for a bit. âFewer, I think. Thereâs a trend back to handmade just now, so more women are learning how to do these things. Thereâs someone teaching it locally. She holds a regular class at Ingebretsenâs in Minneapolis.â
âIs there something about the way people do this stuff,â