pour over pancakes. Our national mindset pivots around the word âbutâ: as in âThis, yes, but that, too.â Cato puts her fingers to her temples and sheaths her cheeks with her palms. Her arguments run aground on my tolerance, which has been elsewhere described as a refusal to listen. Passion in Dutch meetings is punished by being ignored. The idea is that the argument itself matters, not the intensity with which itâs presented. Outright rejections of a position are rare; what you get instead are suggestions for improvement that if followed would annihilate the original intent. And then everyone checks their agendas to schedule the next meeting.
Just like that, weâre walking back. Weâre single-file again, and itâs gotten colder.
From our earliest years, weâre taught not to burden others with our emotions. A young Amsterdammer in the Climate campus is known as the Thespian because he sobbed in public at a co-workerâs funeral. âYou donât need to eliminate your emotions,â Kees reminded him when the Amsterdammer complained about the way heâd been treated. âYou just need to be a little more economical with them.â
Another thing I never told Cato: my sister and I the week before she caught the flu had been jumping into the river in the winter as well. That was my idea. When she came out, her feet and lips were blue and she sneezed all the way home. âDo you think Iâll catch a cold?â she asked that night. âGo to sleep,â I answered.
We take a shortcut through the sunken pedestrian mall they call the Shopping Gutter. By the time we reach our street itâs dark, raining again, and the muddy pavementâs shining in the lights of the cafes. Along the new athletic complex in the distance, sapphire-blue searchlights are lancing up into the rain at even intervals, like meteorological harp strings. âI donât know if you
know
what this does to me, or you donât,â Cato says at our doorstep, once sheâs stopped and turned. Her thick brown hair is beaded with moisture where itâs not soaked. âBut either way, itâs just so miserable.â
I actually
have
the solution to our problem, Iâm reminded as I follow her up the stairs. The thought makes me feel rehabilitated, as though Iâve told her instead of only myself.
Cato always maintained that when it came to their marriage, her parents practiced a sort of apocalyptic utilitarianism: on the one hand they were sure everything was going to hell in a handbasket, while on the other they continued to operate as if things could be turned around with a few practical measures.
But thereâs always that moment in a countryâs history when it becomes obvious the earth is less manageable than previouslythought. Ten years ago we needed to conduct comprehensive assessments of the flood defenses every five years. Now safety margins are adjusted every six months to take new revelations into account. For the last year and a half weâve been told to build into our designs for whatever weâre working on features that restrict the damaging effects
after
an inevitable inundation. There wonât be any retreating back to the hinterlands, either, because given the numbers weâre facing there wonât be any hinterlands. Itâs gotten to the point that pedestrians are banned from many of the sea-facing dikes in the far west even on calm days. At the entrance to the Haringvlietdam theyâve erected an immense yellow caution sign that shows two tiny stick figures with their arms raised in alarm at a black wave three times their size thatâs curling over them.
I watched Keesâs face during a recent simulation as one of his new configurations for a smart dike was overwhelmed in half the time he would have predicted. It had always been the Dutch assumption that we would resolve the problems facing us from a position of strength. But
Jill Myles, Jessica Clare