came to the boots. I went to put them into the pack and one of the boys stepped forward and stopped me, saying something I didnât understand.
âHe wants for you to try them on to make sure they fit,â Sarah explained.
âOh, Iâm pretty sure theyâll fit unless my feet have changed sizes in the last few hours.â
âJust do as he asks,â Sarah said.
Almost instantly one of the other boys materialized holding a little three-legged stool. I sat down and pulled a pair of socksâmy socksâout of the pack. I kicked off the sandals, pulled on the socks and then slipped my foot into one of the boots.
The same boy said something and Sarah translated. âHe wants to know if they fit.â
âTell him they are too small and I want to know if he has something bigger.â
Sarah looked shocked.
âGo ahead and tell him.â
Sarah gave me a sly smile and then spoke. The boy looked as surprised as she had.
âAsk him if he has any bigger ones because I do not really like these much.â
Sarah translated and the boy replied.
âHe says there are no bigger ones in Tanzania, and he thought for sure they would fit you as if they were your own.â
âTell him they are too small and too ugly, but I will take them if the price is right.â
Sarah burst into laughter and then told the boy, who also started to laugh. He slapped her on the back.
âHe says the price will be good because he likes you. He says you are a good mzungu .â
I did up the laces on the boots, making sure they were tied tightly. I wasnât giving back these boots and I wanted to have something better than sandals if I had to run.
I searched the stall again until I was certain that Iâd located all of my things. What I couldnât fit into my pack I put into my other bagâthe green duffel bag. I did a rough tally in my head, trying to remember what else was missing, what else I still had to find. I basically had everything I could think of, including my special flashlightâthe one I would wear on my head like a mining light.
âThatâs it,â I said.
âGood. We will negotiate a price.â
The two of them began talking. The conversation quickly became excited, and I could tell that they had very different ideas about what I should pay. I wished I could have been part of the discussion or at least understood what they were saying. The one boy turned away and joined the other two, and the three of them began an equally noisy discussion.
âI have offered them around twenty thousand shillings,â Sarah said to me.
âBut you told me to bringââ
âBe quiet. Do not let them hear the number. Numbers in English they understand. We are negotiating. They wish to have one hundred and fifty thousand shillings!â
âI donât have that much money with me!â
âAnd we will not pay that much. This is how things are done here. I will talk them down.â
Sarah turned to the boys and yelled out something, and instantly all three of them burst into laughter, one of them laughing so hard that he almost fell over.
âWhat did you say to them?â I asked.
âI told them that if they didnât sell the boots to you that they would have to hope that an elephant needed footwear or perhaps a small family could use one of them as a hut.â
The first boy returned, and he and Sarah again started talking, throwing sentences back and forth. Finally, judging from the nodding of heads, I thought theyâd reached a decision.
âGive me your money,â Sarah said. âAnd turn your pockets inside out so they can see that you carry nothing more.â
I did what I was told.
There were more arguments, more discussion, and then finally Sarah gave them the money. The boy looked at me and said something.
âHe is telling you that it was a pleasure to do business with you and that he hopes you always keep an