The Art and Craft of Coffee

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Authors: Kevin Sinnott
lifts the unroasted beans until they float; the suspension of the beans ensures even roasting. The process is similar to that of an electric popcorn popper, and in fact, can work using a popcorn popper. The noise of the circulating air often masks the crucial popping sounds, but the ability to see the beans during roasting means you more likely know when they are done.

Look for the airborne beans on the left, lifted high by the hot air shooting upwards from below.
    Pros
• Ease. Fluid-air roasting is most efficient roast method because it roasts in a linear method and thus is the easiest for which to design a machine. Best of all, home air roasting requires no fancy gear. A simple air popcorn popper will do.
• Roasting speed. Air roasting is fast and heats beans evenly, bringing out the coffee’s bright acidity and reducing any tipping (or scorching of the beans) that frequently happens in drum roasts. Air roasting generally takes between five and twelve minutes.
• Visual presentation. Most fluid-air roasters use glass canisters for roasting. Not only does the roast master get the pleasure of seeing the beans roast but also can use this tool to watch the beans and judge their doneness.
• Quick cooling. Most air roasters feature quick-responding cooling cycles. Many experts believe that quick cooling reduces bitterness.
    Cons
• Speed. The air roaster’s quick roasting speed may improve flavor, but it means a quick response when the beans finish roasting. Seconds count, and an early or late response at the moment of truth can ruin the batch.
• Too much noise. It takes significant air movement to keep a bed of beans floating, and that means noise, often enough to make it difficult to hear first and second crack.
• Low yield. Most air roasters can roast only a small amount of beans, perhaps enough for a pot or two of coffee.
• No flavor complexity. Some claim that air roasting, while simple and straightforward, does not develop the same complexity and flavor depth of a good drum roast. Most who share this view think it has something to do with air’s convection heating, although some direct contact heat does occur as the beans touch each other.
Materials
Fluid-air coffee roaster
Digital scale
Green coffee beans
Kitchen timer or clock
Heat-safe gloves
Steel colander, optional
Mason jar (or other glass container)
Fire extinguisher, in case of roasting fire

Overriding the System
Many advanced users prefer to decide exactly when to stop the roast rather than let the preprogrammed appliance do it for them. To override the preset cycles, choose the longest roast cycle, perhaps longer than you expect. Once the beans achieve their desired roast, simply hit cool to manually end the process.
    Instructions
1. Start with a cool roaster, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer.
2. Using your digital scale, measure the manufacturer’s recommended amount of green beans for the roaster’s capacity (a) . Do not exceed the recommended volume.
3. Pour the beans into the roaster (b) . Gently shake to spread them evenly. Press start. Start your timer here as well.
4. Observe the beans as they turn yellow (c) .
5. As soon as a crackling sound begins, the coffee has reached the leading edge of first crack. Note the time. All beans should be at first crack within 1 to 2 minutes (d) . Once all the beans have reached first crack, a brief silence will occur, followed by second crack, distinguished by a more rapid crackling sound. The beginning of second crack delivers a Full City roast (e) . Beyond this temperature darker roasts such Vienna and French occur.
6. When your beans have reached their desired doneness, press the cooling button to override the roaster’s heating (or allow your roaster to automatically cool when the timer ends). Your roaster will switch to its cooling cycle and begin circulating fresh, cool air. (If using a corn popper that doesn’t have a cooling cycle, wear oven mitts and carefully remove the

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