Free The Essential James Beard Cookbook by James Beard

at the moment of serving, and this timing, together with the seasoning, made it, we thought, better than any chowder on the beach in Gearhart.
2 dozen shucked razor, cherrystone, quahog, or littleneck clams; or about 1½ cups with liquid
3 thick slices bacon
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cups boiling salted water
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups half-and-half or whole milk
Unsalted butter, for finishing
Dried thyme, for garnish
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
    Strain the clams over a bowl, reserving the liquid. With a sharp knife, finely chop the clams and set them aside. Cook the bacon in a skillet over medium heat until crisp and browned, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels. Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the skillet. Sauté the onion in the bacon fat until lightly browned. Simmer the potatoes in a large saucepan in the salted water until tender, about 10 minutes.
    Add the reserved clam liquid and bacon to the potatoes and their cooking liquid, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer 5 minutes. Add the half-and-half, bring to a boil, and add the clams. Cook until they are barely heated through. Taste and correct the seasoning. To each serving, add a dollop of butter, a pinch of thyme, and a sprinkle of chopped parsley.
    NOTE: Salt pork can be substituted for the bacon. Also, the size of the clams will determine the number. We used medium cherrystones at Gearhart.
    COLD MINTED PEA SOUP
    MAKES 8 SERVINGS
    This is one of my favorite summer soups, which can be made with yogurt instead of cream if you like a tarter soup with fewer calories.
6 cups Chicken Stock
3 pounds fresh peas in the pod (3¾ cups shelled peas) or 3¾ cups thawed frozen peas
1 small yellow onion, stuck with 2 whole cloves
1 garlic clove, crushed under a knife and peeled
1 teaspoon dried tarragon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups heavy cream or yogurt
Chopped fresh mint, for garnish
    Put the stock in a large pot with the onion, garlic, tarragon, and peas. Cook until the peas are just tender. Remove and discard the onion. Add salt and pepper to taste and purée in a blender with the lid ajar or in a food processor. Combine with the cream or yogurt and refrigerate. Serve well chilled with a generous sprinkling of mint.
    CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP
    MAKES 6 SERVINGS
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    Editor: As the first course for a company dinner, or as a cold-weather lunch, cream of mushroom soup is very versatile. Cremini (baby portobello) mushrooms are more flavorful than white mushrooms, and can be used, but they make a darker soup.
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1 pound white mushrooms
4 cups Chicken Stock
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups heavy cream
2 tablespoons sherry or Cognac (optional)
¼ teaspoon Tabasco
Kosher salt
    Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth and break off the stems. In a large pot, simmer the stems in the stock for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the mushroom flavor has thoroughly permeated the stock. Strain the stock through a sieve into a bowl; discard the stems. Return the stock to the pot. Mix the flour and butter into a paste, beurre manié, and roll into tiny balls. Bring the stock to a boil; drop in the balls of beurre manié and beat in with a whisk until the beurre manié is absorbed and the stock is slightly thickened. Slice the mushroom caps thinly and add them to the thickened broth. Simmer for 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the cream in another pan, stirring, until just at the simmering point. Add the sherry, if using, and stir in the cream. Stir in the Tabasco and season with salt. Reheat the soup until hot, but not boiling, and serve in heated soup plates or cups.
    CREAM OF PEA SOUP
    MAKES 8 SERVINGS
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    Editor: If you make this with fresh peas, be sure that they are very fresh, sweet, and tender. Beard recommends frozen peas without reservations, knowing that