Free Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro by Bobbi Brown Page B

the makeup artist has to “fix” to work on you.

    Troubleshooting: Lip Color
    For pale lips use pastel shades, such as pale pink or light beige. Deep tones appear very dark on pale lips, so apply them with a light hand.
    Very dark lips look best with blue-toned and deep, saturated lip color. Very pale shades of lipstick can appear gray or ashy on dark lips.
    For uneven colored lips that are either dark with pink inside the lower lip or one darker and one lighter lip, you can choose to enhance or conceal the natural colors. Use a light shade that corresponds to the lighter lip color to enhance and bring out the paler lip, or use a deeper shade for a dramatic, full-coverage look. To even out tone, use a sheer, dark lipstick as a base on the lighter area, and then apply regular lipstick.

    1 Choose the color and apply it using a lip brush or directly out of the tube.

    2 Beginning at one corner of the mouth, apply an even layer of color over the entire lip area.

    3 Keep the color within the natural lines of the lips. Use the brush to accurately line the lips.

    4 Continue the application to the other corner of the mouth. Always apply the color into the corners on both top and bottom lips.

    5 Fill in the bottom lip and any missed areas. Press your lips together to evenly distribute the color.
    LIP PENCIL APPLICATION
    It’s so much easier to match the lip color than to use a dark color that has to be blended.

    Tips for Long-Lasting Color
    Some lip color products are long-lasting, but often those formulas are far too dry. Here are some techniques that provide extended wear to regular lipstick formulas.
    Use a lip pencil that matches the natural color of the lips to line and completely fill in the lips. This base helps hold lip color in place. Layer lipstick on top.
    Use pencil on top of lipstick to create a waxy barrier.
    Blotting lipstick with your finger presses color into the lips and will create a stain that will last.
    A bit of powder or blush patted on top of lipstick will keep it on longer.

    1 Begin by choosing color that matches the lips or lipstick. Begin lining the top lip.

    2 Extend the line across the top lip.

    3 Define the line across the bottom lip.

    4 Line underneath the lower lip.

    5 Fill in any missed areas and blend.
    LIP GLOSS APPLICATION
    Lip gloss gives a nice shine and can make the lips look a bit fuller. Don’t overdo it by applying too much.

    1 Apply gloss to a lip brush or directly to the lips.

    2 Using the brush or your finger, begin at the middle of the lips.

    3 Apply gloss to both the top and bottom lips.

    4 Wipe the edges of the lips when finished.

    5 The lips look fuller and hydrated.

Chapter 6
    EYES
    The purpose of eye makeup —whether it’s simple black mascara or dramatic contouring shadow— is to make the eyes stand out. When it’s done right, eye makeup can give the appearance of brighter, more beautiful eyes. Here I cover the basics, like choosing flattering shades and lining the eyes, as well as advanced techniques, like creating a smoky eye and applying false lashes.
    EYEBROW SHAPE & DEFINITION
    You have seen what a difference a great frame can make to a painting. It is the eyebrows that form a frame for your eyes. Beautifully groomed eyebrows make a huge difference. It is possible to transform a face with just tweezers, shadow, a brow brush, and brow gel. A professional will help you find your ideal shape. Once the brows have been groomed, it is easy to do your own upkeep.
    All brows benefit from added definition. Brow brushes and combs quickly tame and shape the brow hair. Brow shapers define, control, and shape the brows quickly and easily while adding just a bit of color.
    Brow-Grooming Supplies
    Brow brush
    Brow pencil
    Clear brow gel
    Tinted brow gel
    Brow shadow
    Tweezers
    Baby scissors for trimming extra-long or curly hair
    Color Chart for Eyebrows

    HOW TO SHAPE BROWS
    The start of the brow should follow an imaginary line drawn from the outside of the nose to the