least this time, I wasn’t alone. At 3:30 AM , Jiban, Maura, and I headed out from Base Camp. It was still pitch-dark outside.
The first part of our journey took us from Base Camp to Camp 1. We had to climb only 2,000 feet higher to 19,500 feet above
sea level. But we would also have to make our way through the most terrifying part of the climb up Mount Everest. Who knew
the trickiest part of the climb was at the beginning?
The Khumbu Icefall sits between the two camps. And it’s one of the most beautiful—and frightening—places on the planet. The
Icefall is made up of gigantic chunks of ice, some as large as buildings. These chunks are called “seracs,” and they are constantly
shifting. Gravity pulls them downward about four feet a day.
Hurrying to catch up with my dad and whoever was with him wasn’t the only reason we had to get an early start. The seracs
pick up speed in the heat of the sun. Huge, seemingly bottomless gaps can quickly open up between them.
Because the seracs are constantly shifting, each year Sherpas establish a new route through the Icefall. They use rope and
aluminum ladders laid flat to create bridges over gaps that can be hundreds of feet deep.
As if that wasn’t bad enough, our only light came from the moon, the stars, and the lamps on our helmets.
The climb was dangerous and hard. But at least it wasn’t so cold!
When I commented on the warm weather and clear skies, Jiban smiled. “Don’t get used to it, my Friend. This time of year the
weather is very unpredictable. A storm can develop in the blink of an eye.”
TRAGEDY STRIKES TOP OF THE WORLD
—
by Holly Fredericks
1996 was the deadliest year in climbing history on the slopes of Mount Everest. While 98 people reached the summit, 15 died trying. That means one person died for about every six that made it to the top. On May 10 alone, eight people were killed when they were caught in a violent storm. One of the climbers who survived that day was Jon Krakauer. He later wrote the bestseller
Into Thin Air
about his experience on the mountain.
Climbers Universe August 1996
Jiban was an excellent climber. He showed no signs of being physically challenged, and both Maura and I relied heavily on
him to get us through this first part of the climb.
About halfway to Camp 1, we came upon a bridge that was actually made of seventeen ladders. They had been lashed together
with rope and spanned the widest, deepest gap yet.
I kept count as I crawled over each ladder. The hardest part was when I got to the eighth ladder and realized I was right
in the middle of the bridge. I could feel it curving slightly from my weight—and for a second I froze. I managed to pull myself
together and inched my way over the rest of the gap.
After that horrifying experience, Jiban said that we deserved a break. We took a seat on the edge of the seracs. It felt kind
of like a giant but very cold couch.
“So,” Maura said, “now that we’re on the mountain, how will we find your dad and the other climber?
“Hopefully,” I replied, “we’ll just catch up to them.”
Jiban gestured up toward the summit of Everest. “This is a big mountain. There are many different routes to the top.”
I smiled. “But I know which way they”ll take.”
“How?” Maura asked.
“It all goes back to Mallory and his missing camera. If we retrace Mallory’s steps on his last climb. I think we’ll find my
dad.”
Jiban said, “You want to reenact his climb?”
I nodded.
“But Mallory died up there,” said Maura.
“It’s the only chance we have to find my dad.” I got to my feet.
Jiban told us break time was over, and we started climbing again.
We made it through the Icefall!
And we made great time, arriving at Camp 1 by 8:45 A.M. Since it was still so early, we decided to keep hiking to the next stop. I’m now in my sleeping bag in my tent at Camp 2
There’s no sign of my dad here. In fact, there is no sign of