swatting them away.
âPerhaps itâs fibres from the carpet,â I suggested hopefully.
âItâs everywhere! Itâs like the chambermaidâs come in with a sack and
strewn
it.â
Suddenly weary, I fell backwards onto the bed, and Connie joined me, the covers crackling with static like a Van de Graaf Generator.
âWhy did we choose this place again?â said Connie.
âYou said it looked quirky on the website. The pictures made you laugh.â
âNot so funny now. Oh God. Sorry.â
âNo, itâs my fault. I should have looked harder.â
âNot your fault, Douglas.â
âI want everything to be
right.
â
âItâs fine. Weâll ask them to come and clean again.â
âWhatâs French for pubic hair?â
âI never learnt that. It never came up. Rarely.â
âIâd say, â
Nettoyer tous les cheval intimes, sâil vous plaît
.ââ
â
Cheveux
.
Cheval
means horse.â She took my hand. âOh well. Weâre not going to be here much.â
âItâs a place to sleep.â
âExactly. A place to sleep.â
I sat upright. âPerhaps we should get going.â
âNo, letâs close our eyes. Here.â
She took my hand, rested her head on my shoulder, our legs dangling over the edge as if on a riverbank. âDouglas?â
âHm?â
âYou know the ⦠conversation.â
âYou want to talk about that now?â
âNo, no, I was going to say, weâre in Paris, itâs a beautiful day, weâre all together as a family. Letâs not talk about it. Letâs wait until after the holiday.â
âOkay. Fine by me.â
And so the condemned man, presented with his final meal, is reminded that at least the cheesecake is delicious.
We dozed. Fifteen minutes later a text from my son in the adjoining room woke us to say that he intended to âdo his own thingâ until dinner. We sat up and stretched, brushed our teeth and left. At the reception desk, in French so riddled with errors, guesses and mispronunciation that it was almost a new language, I informed the desk clerk that I was destroyed but there were many strange horses in our salty bedroom, and we walked out into the Paris afternoon.
33.
à la recherche du temps perdu
Connie was still laughing as we crossed from the 7 th to the 6 th on the sunny side of rue de Grenelle. âWhere on earth did you learn it?â
âIâve sort of made it up myself. Why, whatâs wrong with it?â
âThe vocabulary, the accent, the syntax. You always get caught in these
est-ce que
loops. âIt is that it is possible that it is that the taxi to the hotel for to take us?ââ
âMaybe if Iâd studied it, like you â¦â
âI didnât study it! I learnt it from French people.â
âFrom French boys. From nineteen-year-old French boys.â
âExactly. I learnt ânot so fastâ and âI like you but as a friendâ. I learnt âcan I have a cigarette?â and âI promise I will write to youâ.
Ton cÅur brisé se réparera rapidement.
â
âWhich means â¦?â
âYour broken heart will soon mend.â
âUseful.â
âUseful when I was twenty-one. Not so much now,â she said, and the remark lingered a moment as we reached St Germain.
When Connie and I first came here, in the days when we referred to âdirty weekendsâ without irony, we were dizzy with Paris, drunk on the beauty of the city, drunk on being there together and also, more often than not, literally drunk. Paris was all so ⦠Parisian. I was captivated by the wonderful wrongness of it all â the unfamiliar fonts, the brand names in the supermarket, the dimensions of the bricks and paving stones. Children, really quite small children, speaking fluent French! All that cheese and none of it