Cheddar, and nuts in the salad. Look at the chairs in the Jardin du Luxembourg! So much more poised and elegant than the sag and slump of a deckchair. Baguettes! Or âFrench sticksâ as I called them then, to Connieâs amusement. We carried great armfuls of baguettes home on the plane, laughing as we crammed them into the overhead lockers.
But a branch of The Body Shop is much the same worldwide, and sometimes the Boulevard St Germain seems not that far from Oxford Street. Familiarity, globalisation, cheap travel, mere weariness had diluted our sense of foreign-ness. The city was more familiar than we wanted it to be and, as we walked in silence, it seemed some effort would be required to remind her of the fun we used to have, and could have in the future.
âPharmacies! Whatâs with all the pharmacies?â I said, in my wry, observational tone. âHow do they all survive? Youâd think, from all the pharmacies, theyâd be in a constant state of flu. We have phone shops, the French have pharmacies!â
Still she said nothing. Crossing a side street, I noted the gutters were flowing with fast-moving water, sandbags blocking strategic drains. I had always been impressed by this particular innovation in urban hygiene, seemingly unique to Paris. âItâs like theyâre rinsing out this immense bath,â I said.
âYes, you say that every time we come here. That thing about pharmacies too.â
Did I? I wasnât aware of having said it before. âHow many times have we been here now, dâyou think?â
âI donât know. Five, six.â
âDâyou think you could name them all?â
Connie frowned at the thought. Both of our memories were deteriorating, and in recent years the effort required to recall a name or incident felt almost wearyingly physical, like clearing out an attic. Proper nouns were particularly elusive. Adverbs and adjectives would go next, until we were left with pronouns and imperative verbs. Eat! Walk! Sleep now! Eat! We passed a
boulangerie
.
âLook â French sticks!â I said, and nudged her. Connie looked blank. âWhen we first came to Paris I said, âletâs buy some French sticksâ and you laughed and called me provincial. I said thatâs what my mother used to call them. My dad thought they were barbaric. âItâs all crust!ââ
âThat sounds like your father.â
âThe first time you and I came to Paris, we bought about twenty and carried them back on the plane.â
âI remember. You told me off for nibbling at the ends.â
âIâm sure I didnât âtell you offâ.â
âYou said thatâs what makes them go stale.â
And we were silent again, turning north towards the Seine.
âI wonder what Albieâs up to,â said Connie.
âHeâs asleep, probably.â
âWell thatâs all right. Heâs allowed.â
âEither that or heâs trying to work out why there are no mouldy mugs on the windowsill. Heâs probably there now, burning cigarette holes in the curtains. Room service! Bring me three banana skins and an overflowing ashtray â¦â
âDouglas â this is precisely what we came here to avoid.â
âI know. I know.â
And then she slowed and stopped. We were on rue Jacob, standing near a small, somewhat ramshackle hotel.
âLook. Itâs our hotel,â she said, taking my arm.
âYou remember that.â
âThat trip, I do. Which room was it?â
âSecond floor, on the corner. The yellow curtains. There it is.â
Connie put her head on my shoulder. âPerhaps we should have gone back to that hotel instead.â
âI thought about it. I thought it would have felt a little strange, with Albie there.â
âNo, heâd have liked it. You could have told him the story, heâs old enough now.â
34. the hotel on rue