in.â
âI see,â said Naniamma , placing everything back in the bag.
âYou must stay for dinner and meet my wife,â said Tariq Sahib .
âThank you so much for the invitation,â said  Naniamma gently, âbut we need to prepare for our trip to Aminpur. Perhaps on our return we can stop by for tea.â
âAs you wish,â said Tariq Sahib , taking a slim volume from a shelf. âSadly, this India is not the one you left, but best of luck on your journey. Please accept this as a token of my respect and admiration.â
âThank you,â said Naniamma , taking the book. On its cover was a bearded man.
âThat is Mirza Ghalib, the court poet to Bahadur Shah, the last Mughal emperor,â said Tariq Sahib . âMy favorite poem is âTemple Lamps.â Be sure to read it.â
With that they parted, but Tariq Sahib âs words echoed in Mayaâs mind: Old Delhi is gone. . . . Itâs all gone, and those who were left behind are in misery, and those who were uprooted are in misery. As they exited, she felt a rumble in her belly.
âHow about we eat something before heading back to the hotel?â suggested Naniamma .
âGreat idea,â said Zara. âWhere should we go?â
âCheck the book,â said Naniamma , glancing at Maya. âItâs led us in the right direction so far.â
Maya located a place nearby, Karimâs: a restaurant âfit for kingsâliterally,â said the guidebook, as it was owned by the descendants of royal Mughal cooks. They walked past the bustling open-air kitchen, where men danced in an age-old ballet, some stirring huge stainless steel pots while others grilled meat on flames and flattened disks of dough to be placed inside blistering clay ovens. The waiter seated them at a table and handed them menus.
âItâs like Bundoo Khan,â muttered Maya, remembering the restaurant in Karachi. Sheâd been Âhoping to find something she was familiar with. But it was all familiar. There were kebabsâchicken, lamb, and fish. Parathas âplain or stuffed with potatoes or minced meat. A dozen biryanis, royal rice dishes, and vegetable dishesâcreamed spinach, peas, cauliflower, and lentils. It was like she was staring down at a menu in Pakistan.
âEven though they are now two countries, the recipes were formulated in the same kitchens before1947,â said Naniamma . âBundoo Khan brought his recipes to Karachi from his hometown in India. Of course, there are regional differences,â she added as the waiter placed a sizzling plate of kebabs in front of them. âThe food in the South has its own unique flavors and ingredients.â
As Maya took a paratha and added a piece of juicy boneless lamb kebab to her plate, Naniamma added absentmindedly, âAnd India has many vegetarians, since many Hindus, Jains, and Buddhists donât eat meat.â
After the waiter left, Naniamma quieted, lost in her own thoughts. Maya noticed that her grandmotherâs hand shook as she reached to take a piece of flaky paratha , and she worried that the day had taken a toll on her. A long journey lay ahead of them. She needed to get back to the hotel and get some rest.
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A deep, sweet weariness in her bones, Maya grabbed her journal and settled into the bed to log the dayâs events while Naniamma and Zara bustled about, preparing for their trip the next day. She pulled out her colored pencils and drew a map of Old Delhi marked with the locations theyâd traveled to that day.
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Saturday, September 17, continued.
New Delhi, India
India is not how I imagined it would be. I was expecting it to feel unfamiliar, but everything we saw reminded me of Pakistan: the people, the eggplant and okra in the market, the beggars on the street, the monsoon rains, rickshaws, sticky, sweet jalebis , and the