as they listen to the football results. He says that in every town, on market-day, a guy sits in a booth recharging mobiles, due to the lack of electricity.
Suddenly I long to go there. Iâve only been to Africa once, on safari in Kenya when the kids were small. The Masai danced for us as the shutters clicked; I could see the aristocratic contempt on their faces. Paul, my husband, kept missing the perfect shot. The moment we spotted a lion his battery had died; Kenya echoed to his curses.
Cameras clicking, the Kikanda clicking and whistling. My husband never whistled, up on his ladder. What was their secret, those hunter-gatherers who had no cornices to clean? What had Paul and I missed, all those years? Why had that happiness evaporated? Because we had been happy, for a while.
And now weâre in Uniqlo and, like a wife, Iâm holding up a shirt for Jeremyâs inspection. He takes a blue one and a red one. Heâs fallen uncharacteristically silent. Iâm wondering if heâs thinking what Iâm thinking, the wife thing. Perhaps heâs missing Bev, who must have done this with him a thousand times. Tiny, girly Bev, with her tinkly laugh and glossy chestnut hair.
The lighting is pitiless. I catch sight of myself in the mirror, tall and gaunt. My face is blanched. Nobody says this about ageing, how the glow bleaches out until one gradually becomes colourless, like an etching of oneâs own self-portrait. The tiny lines, of course, add to this effect. How has Bev aged? I havenât seen her for years but in the countless photos she posts on Facebook she looks exactly the same. She and I are such a contrast â she small and curvy, me tall and skinny. Somebody once compared us to a chihuahua and a lurcher.
Jeremy buys the shirts and now weâre chattering again. Weâre discussing
The News Quiz
, a programme to which weâre both addicted on our different continents. From there we get on to Japanese food. Jeremy, who has lived out there, loves it. I say I find Japanese restaurants sterile and beige and painfully polite.
âI mean, whoâs ever had sex after a Japanese meal?â
âThe Japanese, I expect.â
We leave the purgatory of Oxford Street and saunter through Soho. Jeremy was at some funding meeting this morning but has the rest of the day free so I suggest a cup of tea at my favourite place in the world, Maison Bertaux. I know I should be working on the Prague book but heâs only here for a few days and it seems a shame to sit at my computer. This truanting is becoming a habit.
We walk down Dean Street in companionable silence. Over the past couple of days weâve been together so much that our conversation ebbs and flows like a married coupleâs. My life isnât usually like this. Itâs staccato. Friends come and go â a meal, the cinema â and then thereâs a gap till we see each other again. Itâs what happens in a city when you live on your own; thereâs no continuity, you canât work up a rhythm with anybody. I realize how much I miss it.
âGood God, theyâre all poofters!â
âDuh.â I nudge him with my elbow. âDo keep up.â
Jeremy is astonished by the change in Soho. He hasnât been here for years and thereâs been a population transfusion. The hookers and bohemians have disappeared, to be replaced by men on the prowl. Itâs only four oâclock but the pavementâs crowded with them, knocking back the Peroni. They glance through Jeremy without interest and turn back to each other.
âYouâre old, youâre invisible!â I crow. âJoin the club.â
As we walk along he tells me about the geography teacher at his public school. The man used to fondle the boysâ buttocks when they gave in their work but Jeremy says it never did him any harm.
âDonât be so bloody English,â I snap. âIt mustâve had some effect on you,