shameful secrets of her past.
On the streets, Rasheed named various buildings with authority; this is the American Embassy, he said, that the Foreign Ministry. He pointed to cars, said their names and where they were made: Soviet Volgas, American Chevrolets, German Opels.
âWhich is your favorite?â he asked.
Mariam hesitated, pointed to a Volga, and Rasheed laughed.
Kabul was far more crowded than the little that Mariam had seen of Herat. There were fewer trees and fewer gari s pulled by horses, but more cars, taller buildings, more traffic lights and more paved roads. And everywhere Mariam heard the cityâs peculiar dialect: âDearâ was jan instead of jo, âsisterâ became hamshira instead of hamshireh, and so on.
From a street vendor, Rasheed bought her ice cream. It was the first time sheâd eaten ice cream and Mariam had never imagined that such tricks could be played on a palate. She devoured the entire bowl, the crushed-pistachio topping, the tiny rice noodles at the bottom. She marveled at the bewitching texture, the lapping sweetness of it.
They walked on to a place called Kocheh-Morgha, Chicken Street. It was a narrow, crowded bazaar in a neighborhood that Rasheed said was one of Kabulâs wealthier ones.
âAround here is where foreign diplomats live, rich businessmen, members of the royal familyâthat sort of people. Not like you and me.â
âI donât see any chickens,â Mariam said.
âThatâs the one thing you canât find on Chicken Street.â Rasheed laughed.
The street was lined with shops and little stalls that sold lambskin hats and rainbow-colored chapan s. Rasheed stopped to look at an engraved silver dagger in one shop, and, in another, at an old rifle that the shopkeeper assured Rasheed was a relic from the first war against the British.
âAnd Iâm Moshe Dayan,â Rasheed muttered. He half smiled, and it seemed to Mariam that this was a smile meant only for her. A private, married smile.
They strolled past carpet shops, handicraft shops, pastry shops, flower shops, and shops that sold suits for men and dresses for women, and, in them, behind lace curtains, Mariam saw young girls sewing buttons and ironing collars. From time to time, Rasheed greeted a shopkeeper he knew, sometimes in Farsi, other times in Pashto. As they shook hands and kissed on the cheek, Mariam stood a few feet away. Rasheed did not wave her over, did not introduce her.
He asked her to wait outside an embroidery shop. âI know the owner,â he said. âIâll just go in for a minute, say my salaam. â
Mariam waited outside on the crowded sidewalk. She watched the cars crawling up Chicken Street, threading through the horde of hawkers and pedestrians, honking at children and donkeys who wouldnât move. She watched the bored-looking merchants inside their tiny stalls, smoking, or spitting into brass spittoons, their faces emerging from the shadows now and then to peddle textiles and fur-collared poostin coats to passersby.
But it was the women who drew Mariamâs eyes the most.
The women in this part of Kabul were a different breed from the women in the poorer neighborhoodsâlike the one where she and Rasheed lived, where so many of the women covered fully. These women wereâwhat was the word Rasheed had used?ââmodern.â Yes, modern Afghan women married to modern Afghan men who did not mind that their wives walked among strangers with makeup on their faces and nothing on their heads. Mariam watched them cantering uninhibited down the street, sometimes with a man, sometimes alone, sometimes with rosy-cheeked children who wore shiny shoes and watches with leather bands, who walked bicycles with high-rise handlebars and gold-colored spokesâunlike the children in Deh-Mazang, who bore sand-fly scars on their cheeks and rolled old bicycle tires with sticks.
These women were all swinging handbags
J. S. Cooper, Helen Cooper