hours, depending on when Denis was moved to cookâeleven oâclock at night, three oâclock in the morningâbut when they sat down to dinner on that night, it was at a perfectly sensible hour, seven oâclock in the evening. Before both of them was a wide-lipped bowl, a slice of French bread fried in butter waiting in it. Denis ladled out the stew. The bread drank it up.
âBon appétit,â he said, lifting his spoon to sip.
Malcolm swirled his wine glass, staring down at the heady, alcoholic broth in the bowl. This had used to be his favourite dish, but lately it tasted more and more like bile. âOh, I know!â he said. âWould you like to hear a joke?â
Denis leaned forward to listen.
âThis old Jewish lady is walking down the street when she sees, on the bench at the bus stop, a man she used to knowâa Mr. Epstein. âMr. Epstein!â she cries out in delight. âItâs me, Mabel Goldberg. I havenât seen you in years!ââ
Denis frowned.
ââMabel,â he tells her. âItâs true. I havenât been around.â âWhere have you been?â âTo prison,â says Mr. Epstein. âPrison!â cries Mabel. âWhat did you do?â âI strangled my wife.â âStrangled your wife? Why Mr. Epstein! I guess youâre single.ââ
Every time, Malcom changed the joke a little, just to amuse himself. But Denis wasnât laughing. He was looking in his bowl, wearing a disgusted expression, as if heâd finally grown sick of everything: the joke, the matelote dâanguille.
âWhatâs the matter?â asked Malcolm. âDonât you think itâs funny any more?â
âNon,â Denis said. âI donât like jokes about Jews.â
Malcolm was taken aback. âA very nice man told me that joke. The son of a client and Jewish himself. He told it in a room probably full of Jews and everyone laughed. No one thought it was offensive in the least.â
The way Denis pursed his lips, he looked surprisingly ugly for such a beautiful man.
âWhat?â asked Malcolm, defensively. âI donât see anything wrong.â
Denis said, âI donât care for them. Jews.â
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HOW IT GOES
IN RATLAND
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1
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T he new owner âher name was Amandaâcalled him at home and invited him in a NutraSweet voice to have lunch with her. Malcolm had already met her before theyâd closed up Fayeâs. Sheâd brought with her three minions bearing tape measures and paint samples, and not once did she look at or speak to Malcolm. âWe have a lot to talk about,â she said now on the phone.
She named the restaurantâright there on the avenue, convenientlyâand the time. Malcolm came a little early, then had to wait twenty minutes for her. When she arrived, it was calmly, without a hint of hurry or apology. She was a tall woman, ageless in her too-taut skin.
âLook,â she told him as soon as she joined him, âthere are other salons nearby. Five, actually. I took the trouble to count. At any of them you might fit in better.â
Already Malcolmâs back was up and he had not even opened the menu. âDo you include in that number MagiCuts and Wandaâs House of Beauty?â
âOkay. Four. Wandaâs is okay.â
âAs far as I can tell, her clientele is exclusively Cantonese-speaking.â
âOkay, three. Those are only the ones within walking distance. Thereâs a whole city out there, you know.â
He didnât. He rarely sallied forth. The closest he came to adventurousness was to trace his finger along the crest of the North Shore Mountains, as he had used to do as a boy, though now it felt as if he were mimicking his own unstable vital signs on a screen.
The waitress interrupted to take their order. Malcolm didnât