though obviously you can keep them in their liquid in the jar to be plundered whenever you want them.
And actually, since you’re going to need about 2 lemons’ worth for the sea bass below, you might well want to boost quantities for regular use.
for the sea bass:
1 sea bass, approx. 1kg, gutted and scaled
3 tablespoons olive oil
6–8 quarters preserved lemons
small bunch fresh parsley, chopped
1 small bunch fresh mint, chopped
1 tablespoon syrup from the lemons
black pepper
Score the sea bass, making about three slashes almost to the bone on each side of the fish. Brush the fish with the olive oil, taking care to paint the head and tail well, as those parts stick the most.
Chop the lemon pieces finely and put them in a bowl with the chopped parsley and mint, mix everything up with your fingers and then stuff the six slashes with the lemon-herb mixture. Any herby, lemony gunge that’s left once you’ve done this can be put into the cavity of the fish.
Lay the fish on a piece of foil and drizzle with the syrup, and season with black pepper. Then when you are ready to cook, lay the fish (on the foil) straight on to a very hot barbecue. Cooking the fish on a piece of foil means that it doesn’t stick to the grill bars and you can also manoeuvre the fish off the heat easily when it’s ready. Cook the sea bass for about 15 minutes. That’s to say, it takes this long on my barbecue – which has a lid – but if you’re cooking on an open barbecue, you will probably need to turn the fish. Otherwise, you can wrap the fish entirely in foil – making a tightly sealed but baggy package – and sit it on a baking tray in a hot oven (about 200°C/gas mark 6) for about the same length of time.
Serves 4.
SALMON KEBABS WITH POMEGRANATE MOLASSES AND HONEY
Salmon may not be the most refined fish in the sea, but it does have the advantage of being able to take just about anything you want to throw at it. This may not be the most positive way of putting it; there is a lot to be said for its juicy coral meatiness. Here, treacly pomegranate molasses, honey and soy pervade it with sour-sweet pungency; once grilled, it takes on a burnished, barbecued stickiness.
80ml pomegranate molasses
80ml good-quality runny honey
1 tablespoon soy sauce
500g salmon fillet, cubed (approx. 4cm square)
Whisk together the pomegranate molasses, honey and soy, and pour into a freezer bag. Add the salmon pieces, and tie the bag, expelling any air first, then marinate for at least an hour.
Soak some wooden skewers in water, and then thread about three cubes of salmon on to each skewer. Barbecue or grill the fish for 3–4 minutes each side.
Makes 5 skewers.
COCONUT AND CHILLI SALMON KEBABS
I tend to shunt these kebabs on to my barbecue, but you can just as easily blister them under the grill. Think green Thai curry without the sauce – and to be frank you could stay within the correct register and just as easily make up kebabs by using chunked chicken or whole tiger prawns instead.
2 small Thai green chillies, roughly chopped
6 spring onions, roughly chopped
bunch fresh coriander, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce
juice of 2 limes
1 x 400g tin coconut milk
pinch salt
1 teaspoon caster sugar
1kg salmon fillet, cut into large cubes
Put the chillies, spring onions and coriander in a food processor and blitz until finely chopped. Add the fish sauce, lime juice, coconut milk, salt and sugar, and purée again until you have a thick paste.
Put the salmon cubes into a freezer bag and pour in the coconut marinade. Squeeze out the air, seal the bag tightly and leave in the fridge for at least an hour.
Thread the salmon on to wooden skewers that have been soaked in water; roughly, you should get about three cubes of fish for each kebab.
Barbecue for about 5 minutes; it’s hard for me to be specific since I don’t know how hot you can get your barbecue. And I find about 3 minutes a side more or less does it under a hot