The New Persian Kitchen

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Authors: Louisa Shafia
When guests come to visit, it’s typical for Iranians to put out a bowl of fresh fruit studded with small,sweet cucumbers and cherry tomatoes. Most Persian meals are accompanied by a platter of sabzi khordan , “herbs for eating,” laid with piles of fragrant mint, chives, basil, dill, fenugreek, cilantro, tarragon, and parsley, along with feta cheese and flatbread. You might even say that Persians are infatuated with green herbs; at Norooz (Persian New Year), it’s customary to serve an entire dinner devoted to them.
    Contrary to popular belief, meat is traditionally used in modest quantities, as native philosophy stipulates that eating too much of it can throw the body off balance. In fact, kebabs are not a typical Persian meal, but are generally considered restaurant food. The reason kebabs have come to represent Persian cooking to so many people, it’s argued, is because women are masters of the more complex stews and rice dishes and kebabs are easy-to-make “dude food.” Since women do the cooking at home and men cook in public in restaurants, tourists who eat exclusively in restaurants don’t know that there is so much more to Persian food than kebabs! In fact, most Iranians consider a home-cooked meal far superior to one that’s cooked in a restaurant. Yes, there are some great Iranian restaurants out there, but what you really want is an invitation to dine in a Persian home—or to do the cooking yourself.
    A protein you will see a lot of in Persian homes is the humble bean. Inexpensive and full of vitamins,beans are eaten almost daily. As in Indian cuisine, they are usually cooked with turmeric to help make them more digestible. Another source of protein isnuts, which contain unsaturated fat and are linked to the prevention of heart disease. Pistachios and walnuts are native to Iran, while almonds come from nearby in the Middle East, so Iranians have had eons to integrate them into their food. Popular Persian snacks include creamy fresh walnuts soaked in saltwater and crunchy green almonds eaten fresh from the pod.
    Although Iranians love rich ingredients like nuts, Persian food is generally low in cholesterol. There are few dairy products used in Persian cooking, with the exception of panir , a fresh white cheese similar to feta, and yogurt, which is easy to digest and full of beneficial bacteria.
    Persians rarely eat dessert. Of course, for special occasions both store-bought and homemade pastries are served, but the typical way to end a Persian meal is with nuts and fruit. Maybe it’s because Iran has such a long history as an agrarian country and remains one of the world’s leading producers of fruit, but Persians have a genuine sweet tooth for juicy, pungent fruits like watermelon, pomegranates, grapes, cherries, oranges, and tangerines. Stores specializing in dried fruits and nuts are as popular in Iran as pastry and candy shops are in America, but instead of doughnuts and chocolate bars, Iran’s “sweet shops” feature jewel-toned dried fruits like figs, raisins, mulberries, lemons, peaches, mangoes, and, of course, dates.

sweet and smoky beet burgers
    These scarlet burgers can be served on top of grains or salad, eaten like latkes or falafel, or tucked into a bun. Top them with any of the dips and spreads in the Starters and Snacks chapter, the Tamarind Date Chutney , or the Fig Mustard . My favorite way to eat them is topped with yogurt, a fragrant mound of dill, and the Tomato and Cucumber Salad . The burger mixture can be made a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator.
    makes 8 burgers
    1 yellow onion
    3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, plus extra for searing
    1 cup peeled and grated beets (approximately 1 small beet)
    3 cloves garlic, crushed
    1 cup walnuts
    ½ cup golden raisins
    2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika
    ½ cup cooked green lentils, rinsed and drained
    Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
    2 cups cooked short-grain brown rice or white sushi rice, at room temperature
    1 egg
    Slice

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