for a table for six people right away,â Frank said. âYou shouldnât do that. That was stupid.â
It was obvious in retrospect but I hadnât even realized it. âIâm sorry. Iâm new to the city.â
âIt doesnât matter,â Frank said. âItâs like that everywhere. You probably didnât think we were that popular because we donât have a sign out front, either. But thatâs the biggest clue that a place is usually packed.â
I sipped my wine, and nodded. Frank clearly knew what he was talking about; he was speaking from years of experience. âI totally get what youâre saying,â I told him.
âLet me tell you a little bit about how the restaurant business works.â
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HOW TO GET A TABLE
A misconception people have is that restaurants are holding tables. They arenât. In fact, restaurants have (just like airlines) a virtual overbooking policy where there are more reservations than there are tables. With most of the better restaurants, you have to reconfirm your reservations. If you donât do so by the day before, theyâll scrap your reservation.
Overbooking is quite a science, where the benefits outweigh the risks. The restaurateurs have it figured out: how many are typically no-shows as well as how long it takes for the appetizers, the drinks, and the whole thingâdown to fifteen-minute increments. Some take things to the next level. RA Sushi on the Las Vegas strip overbooks to help ensure buzz and a sense of urgency. Style-makers and hipsters love intensity and drama, so a little bottleneck at the hostessâs podium helps maintain the sense that you are in the ârightâ place.
Restaurants also have customer databases. If youâre a really generous spender, or a big tipper, or a major pain in the ass, or sends things back, thatâs noted in the database. This works to a returning customerâs advantageâ if youâre acting correctly. Instead of calling and asking for a table for Saturday night at 8:00, you can ask the hostess to look up someoneâs name. If the establishment likes that personâand they might tell you so if askedâthen itâs much easier to get a table.
Nine oâclock is the hardest time to get, then 8:00. Then it jumps to 7:15 and after that itâs 10:15. In terms of size of party, itâs hard to get twelve but itâs not hard to get four. Just think of the logic. How many tables does a restaurant have that it can accommodate two people? Four? Six? Ironically, a reservation for four is usually easier than one for a couple. Most people go on dates, just two for dinnerâleaving the establishment with more four-tops to fill.
Now, thereâs a wrong way and a right way to get a table. Tippee, the infamous hostess from Sen in Sag Harbor, taught me a very valuable technique to use when confronted with a mob scene and a mile-long wait. Never speak to the hostess at the podium. If you check in at the podium with the masses, you are visible and everyone keeping track will know exactly when you came and who âshouldâ be seated before you. Youâre podium poison, and no one will feel safe doing you any favors. Even if you have to wait an extra few minutes, get the hostessâs attention when they are away from the podium. When you corner them, compliment them on how amazing they are at handling the crowd. This sets you apart from the mob.
Letâs suppose you call Faustina, or any such âitâ spot, and want the four-top. The hostess then looks in the database, and theyâre probably all booked. If youâre just a regular inexperienced guy, itâs, âAll right, thanks, never mind,â and youâre over.
But letâs say youâre really good on the phone. âFour at nine oâclock.â
âIâm sorry, weâre fully committed.â
âOh, whatâs your name