again?â
âJoan.â
âOh, right, I was there two weeks ago. Were you there? Were you the one with blond hair in the front? I think we met. So listen, what about ifââ
Thatâs why itâs a good idea to case the joint ahead of time. You donât even have to go there. You can just call a few days before you actually call for the reservation and just chat with somebody because youâre not asking for anything. âWow, I saw your review! Your restaurant looks amazing. Whatâs your website? Whatâs your name?â
So then, a few days later, it becomes, âIs this Joan? Hey, itâs Michael. There are four of us for Thursday; can we come around nine?â
âNo, Iâm sorry, weâre fully committed.â
But because thereâs some sort of relationship established beforehand, you can keep the conversation going. âOh, no. Whatâs your schedule that night? Whatâs the table before that? If we came at seven, do you need the table back by eight thirty? We can get out in an hour and a half.â By acknowledging their system, youâve established yourself as an insiderâand theyâll start to work with you. If youâre a concierge who calls them all the time and sends them good people, then they kind of dig even deeper and look at the names on their reservation list. âJeff Mullen, we know him. Terry Jacobs, weâve never seen her name before. Lisa Ronsonâno idea.â Those last two could potentially cancel, since they donât have a history in the database. Often itâs somebodyâs secretary that booked a reservation and doesnât even remember. The restaurant might be willing to double-book those tablesâif youâve established a relationship with them. They put you in as a cancellation for that hour, and tell you to call back that day. Itâs not like some secret table that they were holding is available, but itâs just as good.
Even if you donât have a reservation, you can pull it off. My own personal strategy for when I donât have a reservation is sitting at the bar. I go to the hostess and start things out with something kind of funny. When itâs a really, really hot restaurant, Iâll say something like, âDo you guys accept reservations?â Sheâll kind of look at me like Iâm an idiot, but then they realize that Iâm being facetious. Then Iâll say, âGreat! Can I book a reservation for fourteen people in, like, five minutes?â It starts the whole thing right. Quickly, I go into, âLook, I know, Iâm a loser. I didnât make a reservation. Iâm going to go hang out at the bar. Iâd love to come here. It looks so great. Iâm just gonna play it by ear. Iâm in your hands.â I go and hang out at the bar and talk to the bartender, and have a drink, and sometimes order an appetizer. But I always get a table.
First of all, they want to accommodate me because I honored their system. But at the same time, Iâm making light of how seriously people take the whole process. The hostess has to stand at a podium all night and watch the different postures that people take. She has to witness over and over the mistakes people make.
THE MISTAKES PEOPLE MAKE
Donât be totally clueless when you walk in, because you will immediately get blown off. There are people who read an article in a popular magazine or newspaper about a hot new restaurant. For some reason, they think that theyâre the only ones whoâve read the piece and now have some kind of secret information. Theyâll push past the doorman at Minettaâs, thinking itâs a little pub, and ask for a table for two because they read about it somewhere. They are clueless, and theyâre out. The hostess wonât even look at them.
Another type is the guy who has no respect for the system. He thinks that heâs going to get the table by just
Yasmina Khadra, John Cullen