health but a whole way of life.
Mackinaw City was no city, but rather several blocks of gift stores, resort clothing shops, and trendy bars lining both sides of a wide center ribbon of mostly empty parking spaces. I drove up and down the long main street, checking out the few cars. None were familiar.
I checked out the parking lot for the ferry operation that serviced Mackinac Island, then cruised the side streets. Pa Brumskyâs brown LTD was parked beside a peeling tan-painted house four blocks in. I knocked at the front door. A teenaged boy wearing a tousled T-shirt and rumpled jeans answered.
âIâve been looking for a big old Ford like yours,â I said. âIs it for sale?â
The kid shook his head. âWe just rent parking for people going to Mackinac.â
âBut do you know if itâs for sale?â I said, to keep him talking.
âYou could leave a note on the windshield, with your name and phone number.â He started to close the door.
âDid the owner say when heâd be back?â
A pouty blond girl came into partial view, running her fingers through her own hair because the young manâs was too far away. She wore a tousled T-shirt and rumpled jeans, too.
âLeave a note,â the kid said, shutting the door.
I envied him. There are points in every life when tousling and rumpling must proceed without distraction. I felt ancient, as though it had been centuries since Iâd last been properly tousled and rumpled.
I drove back to the ferry service. Past a row of outdoor restrooms and a gift shop, small whitecaps crashed against a white-fenced dock ramp. Farther out, a ferry was churning the rough water, heading in. Beyond that were two bumps, one large, one small, faint against the gray. Mackinac and Eustace.
No one was around except a man in a white wood ticket booth. âDoes that go to Eustace Island?â I asked, pointing at the approaching ferry.
âNothing goes direct to Eustace. Got to go to the big island, then catch a ride to Eustace.â
âI need to go straight to Eustace.â
âWhat the hell for? Nothing there but one old hotel, thirty rooms, built by some moron thinking to compete with the Grand on Mackinac. He went bust in short time. Other fools came along, thinking to compete, too. Busto, every one of them. Only seasonals use it now, green cards mostly, and most of them wonât be here for another month.â
âA woman I know has a cottage there.â
âThere are those,â he allowed, âa few places that rent to idiots with little money and fewer brains. Itâs a dismal rock, Eustace.â
âWill your ferry take me if I pay extra?â
âFerryâs too big. Docks on Eustace are rickety things, only good for small craft.â He pointed to the whitecaps. âWonât be anybody going to Eustace today except the first crew working at the Grand. Best I can say, if youâre hell-bent, take our ferry to Mackinac, ask whoâll run to Eustace tomorrow, and huddle up at a bed-and-breakfast if you can find one open this early.â
The approaching ferry pivoted in a tight arc, reversed its engines, and backed up alongside the ramp. A hardy-looking couple, tanned even in March, wheeled bicycles down the ramp and rode off. Cheerios people.
âWhenâs it leave?â I asked the ticket seller.
âTwenty minutes.â
âEven if Iâm the only passenger?â
âItâs in the contract. We run on schedule, rain, snow, or empty.â
I boarded and went up to the open top deck. The day had darkened even further, smudging the horizon into the waterline. Mackinac Island and its tiny sister, Eustace, were lost in the gloom.
The diesel engines rumbled louder below decks, and the ferry pulled away from the dock. No one else had gotten on board.
I looked back at the shore.
A bulky figure was standing alongside the ticket shack. His hands were jammed in the