hope you figure this place out,â George said in parting. I thought that he was wishing me well, but then I saw from the look in his eyes that heâd forgotten about clinging together when we thought we were going to die and had now reverted to resenting me for being The Writer Who Refused To Tell His Story. I became sure of it when he added, âNot that I think thatâs likely.â
What do you say to something like that?
âYou know,â George said, studying me, âsome people donât deserve a helping hand.â
Now, where did that come from?
Then it hit me and I snap-pointed at him. â The Bungalow Mystery, #3! Youâre quoting The Bungalow Mystery at me!â
He gave me a look of grudging respect. âGot it in one,â he conceded.
chapter 5
I surprisingly hadnât brushed up on my knowledge of Iceland before flying into the country. It was an adventure, right? I should just be winging it rather than overplanning it, right?
Just before leaving JFK, feeling a frisson akin to guilt that I should at least prepare in some way, Iâd purchased a couple of guidebooksâLonely Planetâs Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands, Fodorâs Scandinavia and a series that was new to me, Hanging Out in Europe.
Then Iâd shoved them in my bag and proceeded to spend the entire flight bumming about George and taking my scenic trip down Bad-Memory Lane.
Maybe I was in denial. Maybe I was in denial because Iâd left a rarely beautiful, crystal and completely non-humid midsummer New York day forâ¦
RAIN!
I heard it before I saw it, pelting the tiny windows of the plane as I waited in line to debark. In a sudden panic over my own unpreparedness, I rifled through my bagâpassport, money, cigarettes, just in case I needed to become a smoker againâand whipped out Lonely Planet.
Index.
Letâs seeâ¦climate, climate, climateâ¦
It said this time of year I could expect a daily temperature of 10.6ºC. Great to know, but not fucking helpful. I was a Fahrenheit girl. Who made Lonely Planet, the Europeans?
I reached for the Fodorâs instead. They seemed like reasonable people.
Climate, climate, climateâ¦
Ha! This one said 14ºCâthe guidebooks couldnât even agree with one another on average daily temperature! I mean, itâs not something like a restaurant review, which would be subjectiveââThe lutefisk rocks!â âThe lutefisk sucks!â It was weather, for crying out loud! Wasnât that supposed to be an exact science? Then my eyes saw that in the Fodorâs, they gave average daily highs and lows and the high was 14ºC, while the low was 9ºC, which was closer to the Lonely Planet listing. So maybe the Lonely Planet people were pessimists. Then my eyes shifted to the right and I finally saw a Fahrenheit listing. Daily high: 57ºF.
In summer.
I switched to Hanging Out in Europe. They didnât bother with Celsius at all, which kind of made me like them more: 58ºF.
It also said that during summer months, now, the warm season âha!âthe nights stay incredibly bright with sunlight, with the sun only dipping below the horizon for a few hours every day, the sky never getting completely dark. Hanging Out in Europe seemed to be the optimist in the bunch and this didnât sound too bad, but then they spoiled the effect by saying the weather changes rapidly and that a beautiful summer day could be wiped out in an instant by cold rain and high winds.
I switched one last time to see what the pessimists had to say about the weather beyond their mean and meaningless 10.6ºC. Lonely Planet said that, âPeriods of fierce, wind-driven rain (or wet snow in winter) alternate with partial clearing, drizzle, gales and fog to create a distinctly miserable climate. Itâs mostly a matter of âif you donât like the weather now, wait five minutesâit will probably get