cladding had been clawed off, picked clean, the windows smashed. On each floor itinerants had left behind piles of human shit and graffiti: Enver mounting his wife, Nexhmije. Or Nexhmije, legs apart, playing with herself alongside an angel with a harp.
It is National Independence Day and back in the Rozala the lobby fills up with old soldiers and cigarette smoke, the sense of special occasion bolstered by the smell of hair oil and shoe polish. Someone hands me a flier drawing attention to a public meeting to be hosted this evening by an American representative of King Leka.
Later in the morning I follow after the old soldiers pouring out of the Rozala with their Fedoras, their stylish cigarette holders, their frayed suits.
A substantial crowd has already gathered between the âHeroes of Vigutâ and a theatre balcony, where the microphones are being set up.
On the edge of the crowd a young man, turning over sausage meat on a hot coal range, wraps my kebab in a page torn from the works of Enver Hoxha. The page in which my kebab comes wrapped is headed, âFailed Strategiesâ and it reads: âWe knew he was bound to come to a bad endâ¦Several times we appealed to him to join the National Liberation Movement, but he didnât want to, andâ¦he was shot like a stray dog.â
Some of the âstray dogsâ from the Hoxha era are gathered on the balcony.
First up is Victor Martini, leader of the political prisoners from the Shkodër area. He spent fifteen years in prison. His proposal to rededicate the âHeroes of Vigutâ memorial to those thousands killed by the Communists draws the biggest roar of approval.
Pjeter Arbori, after thirty years in prison and recently emerged as the leader of the Democrats in Shkodër, reminds the crowd of the dangers of returning the Socialists to power. This morningâs Shkodra had ridiculed the Socialistsâ first conference of five days earlier with the headline: HOXHA ELECTED FIRST SECRETARY OF SOCIALIST PARTY. Six years had elapsed since the Great Leaderâs death, but disciples were still thick on the ground, and many suspected the Socialistsâ leader, Ramiz Alia, of being a puppet in Nexhmijeâs control.
When Arbori reminds the crowd of the Socialistsâ true allegiances, the crowd begins to chant, âHitler/Hoxha, Hitler/Hoxhaâ¦â
A poet takes the microphone. His voice is soft and uncertain. He addresses the microphone rather than the crowd: âWe are about to remove the bandages. But what is it that we will find? New skin or a scab?â The crowd takes a moment to digest this. There is some shuffling. In the brief silence the poet apparently suffers a crisis of confidence, because next thing he tears the microphone off the stand and like a demagogue, begins to shout, âDemocracy! Democracy!â
Now he has the crowd with him.
But it was time to find Nickâs parentsâ house. Nick had written down his address, but in the hotel all I get from the staff are varying expressions of hopelessness. âTetoriâ is a mystery. I ask for a street map, but no such thing exists. One of the waiters stares at the address an inordinate length of time until he is satisfied that he has never heard of it. Another takes me by the wrist and leads me outside. We walk over to the âHeroes of Vigutâ, where he shades his eyes from the sun and points vaguely in the direction of Greece.
I stop a car travelling at barely faster than idling speed. A cigarette butt dangles from the driverâs lips. I regret it as soon as I hand over the notebook with Nickâs address. The driver has a wild-eyed look about him. âTetori.â He nods. His eyes do a sideways shift to the passenger door.
Shkodër is a maze of tight streets and narrow lanes, some with names, some without. We enter spaces never intended for cars, lanes with high walls of rounded stones, full of promise because of their confined