said.
âFor a second there I thought you coulda been one of the Japs that mightâve known my daddy andâaw hell, you know what I thought.â
âSure.â
The man turned as if to give the Death March memorial one last look. âWell, what the fuck, I donât even remember him anyhow.â
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Wu stopped for a late lunch at a resort called Agoo Playa that offered a fine black-sand beach facing the South China Sea and enough luxury rooms to sleep 140 guests. The town of Agoo in La Union province was near the foot of the Cordillera Mountains in northern Luzon and almost as far north as Baguio itself.
Wu assumed the hotel-resort had been built by the Marcos government, or by some of the ex-Presidentâs closer cronies. He sat, the lone guest in a dining room that would seat eighty, and ordered a beer and the seafood salad from one of the five young waiters who hovered close by. When the beer came, Wu asked, âHow many guests do you have?â
âIn the rooms?â the young waiter said.
Wu nodded.
âFour.â
âThink business will pick up?â
The waiter shrugged. âWhen it gets hot.â
âItâs hot now.â
âHotter,â the waiter said.
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Wuâs last stop before Baguio was the Marcos Park clubhouse that served an eighteen-hole golf course. He had a cup of coffee and admired the empty golf links and the nearly empty clubhouse. He was high in the mountains now and the temperature had dropped from 90 degrees to the mid-70s. The course below looked green, tough and inviting, and Wu thought it a shame nobody was playing.
When he finished his coffee Wu went out on the stone verandah and gazed up at the great stone head of Ferdinand Marcos who glowered down at him. He had seen pictures of the head before, perched up on its own mountain, but had never been able to get a fix on its true size. He now guessed it was either five or six stories tall.
Next to Wu was the only other touristâa fiftyish man who was using a pair of binoculars to inspect the Marcos head. Still gazing through the binoculars, the man said, âLook at that, will you?â
âWhat?â
âThe nose,â the man said in his New Zealand accent.
Wu looked at the Marcos nose with its flared nostrils. He could just make out two small figures, suspended by ropes as they swung from the left stone eyebrow toward the nose. One of the figures was carrying something white.
âWhatâre they doing?â Wu said.
âHere. Take a look.â The man handed him the binoculars. As Wu put them up to his eyes and adjusted the focus, the man said, âUnless I miss my guess, those kidsâre shoving a booger right up the old boyâs nose.â
The binoculars came into focus. âMaybe itâs dynamite,â Wu said.
âMmm,â said the man from New Zealand. âDidnât think of that, did I?â
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Artie Wu sometimes estimated that fifty percent of the Filipinos he met had been to San Francisco. And of those who had, one hundred percent always insisted the California city reminded them of Baguio.
He didnât buy the similarity. Both cities had hills and cool, even chilly, weather, but Baguio always reminded Artie Wu of some southern U.S. piney woods town during a spring cold snap. Asheville, maybe.
Still, Baguio deserved its Summer Capital title because all Manila had once migrated there when the hot season began in March. All
Manila meant the President, the Cabinet, select members of the National Assembly, the generals, the press, the new and old richâand the swarm of civil servants and hangers-on who followed in their wake. Durant had once called Baguio the place where âthe elite meet to eat and fuck up the country.â
But that year the President was spending a hot March in Manila, trying to nail her country back together. As Wu drove past the presidential summer residence (where some kind