fatherâs electronic command station. Here she trolled the blogosphere, Photoshopped her images, visited the lunar landscape, and piloted her virtual fighter jets. We fell into a routine the first week, sitting for hours every day in front of a computer monitor, my father at the keyboard, me in a folding chair by her side, reporterâs notebook and tape recorder at the ready. Some mornings she wanted me to see all the cross-dressing Web links she had bookmarked to âMy Favoritesâ in the years leading up to her operation: âCostume Wigs,â âFantasy Femmes,â âGender Bender,â âGender Heaven,â âJust Between Us Special Girls,â âMaid Service,â âMiss Elaine Transformations,â âMrs. Silks,â âPaper Dolls,â âPetticoated.com,â âPink Gladiolas,â âSweet Chastity Online,â âT-Girl Shopping,â âTop Sissy Sitesâ â¦
âYou can find everything on the Internet!â my father exulted.
The longer we spent in the third-floor garret viewing virtual non-reality, the more frantic I became to escape into the world beyond the perimeter. If I stood at the attic window and stretched on tiptoe, I could just make out, over the chestnut and fruit trees and down the sloping hills and across the river, Pest, that fabled cosmopolis, the historic venue of so much creative and cultural ferment. At the turn of the century, Pest had been host to a spectacular upwelling of artists and writers and musicians whose works had packed the museums and bookstalls and concert halls, whoâd painted and scribbled and composed in the six hundred coffeehouses, published in the twenty-two daily newspapers and more than a dozen literary journals, filled the more than sixteen thousand seats of the cityâs fast-proliferating theaters and opera and operetta houses, and transformed the identity of the long backward capital into the âParis of Eastern Europe.â The city in my mind was the one Iâd read about in John Lukácsâs
Budapest 1900
, the one the
London Times
correspondent Henri de Blowitz described in the late 1890s: âBuda-Pest! The very word names an idea which is big with the future. It is synonymous with restored liberty, unfolding now at each forward step; it is the future opening up before a growing people.â Blowitzâs city, I knew, belonged to a time long past. Still, my mind somehow wanted to hitch the cityâs old aspiration to my fatherâs current one. Even when I was growing up, Iâd felt that a key to my fatherâs enigma must lie in that Emerald City of István Friedmanâs birth. I still couldnât dispel the notion that to understand Stefi, I had to see
her
in the world where
he
was from, visit the streets and landmarks and âroyal apartmentâ that little Pista had inhabited. But Pest was down the hill, visible only on tiptoe.
On those mornings when we werenât lost in NASA rocket launches or Gender Heaven beauty tips, we were inspecting the images sheâd assembled under âMy Pictures.â Few of them were actually
her
pictures; most had been lifted from the Web. An exception was her Screen Saver image, a photo of a servant girl in a French maidâs outfit, a pink bow in her platinum blond curls. She had one white stiletto heel thrust out and was reaching down to adjust a stocking. The chambermaid was my father, whoâd taken a selfie standing in front of a mirror.
Then there were the montages: images sheâd pulled from various Internet pages, into which sheâd inserted herself. All that long experience doctoring fashion spreads for
Vogue
and
Brides
had found its final form: Stefiâs face atop a chiffon slip originally worn by a headless mannequin. Stefi implanted on the long legs of a woman ironing lingerie in a polka-dot apron. (âI added the apron,â she said.) Stefi transported into an