blinks, and the gleaming drops trickle down his cheeks. He flicks his head back so water runs down his throat in rivulets. âDoes that look acceptable?â he asks, pointing at an oncoming swell.
âAwesome.â Kevin turns around and paddles fiercely, hopÂing he can catch the wave. Heâs not the best surfer, despite his love for the ocean and the sport. Heâs a fair swimmer, but doesnât have the self-discipline to practice surfing on his own, and heâs never had anyone interested in going with him. So, heâs never actually stood up and ridden a wave all the way to shore.
The water rises beneath him, and Kevin grips the edges of the board and tries to get to his feet. The wave rushes by and then churns over on itself. Kevin loses his balance and topples off the board. Itâs a mad, whirling rush of confusion underwater, and he can feel himself getting pulled quickly toward shore by the leash on his board.
Everything is green and blue and Kevin canât make out which way is up, can barely see his own hands in front of him, canât concentrate through the roar of water in his ears. If he doesnât right himself soon, heâs going to get a full body drag onto the grainy beach, and itâs going to hurt.
He feels a brushing touch at his ankle and then the leash is off, and Kevin is hauled up to the air. He gasps for breath, coughing and spluttering. Morgan is holding him up. They tread water together; Morgan watches him with a worried expression and keeps his hand clasped firmly around Kevinâs arm.
âThanks, dude,â Kevin says. âI guess weâre even now.â He chuckles.
Morgan doesnât laugh, just blinks and asks, âWere we odd?â
âI saved you, you saved me, even-steven. You know, fair and square.â Kevin gestures between them. Not for the first time he wonders where Morgan is from. Maybe he was home-schooled; his English seems centuries old sometimes. âOh no, my board!â he shouts, swimming quickly toward the beach. Kevinâs feet drag against the pull of the incoming waves. His board has drifted off to a pile of sharp rocks; the surf pummels it relentlessly.
Kevin pulls it off the rocks, groaning when he sees scratches and a huge gouge running down the center, exposing the foam interior.
Morgan clambers onto one of the rocks and eyes the board. âIt is damaged?â
âYeah. I mean, technically I could take it back out and keep going, but then the seawater will get in this crack and itâll just get worse.â
Kevin walks over to the shower area, sprays down his board and rinses it carefully to get all the saltwater off. âGuess no more surfing for today.â
âWe could watch a movie,â Morgan suggests.
âYeah, that sounds good. Do you wanna go home and change out of your wet clothes?â The question is already out of his mouth before Kevin remembers he has never asked if Morgan lives in town, or if he moved recently to the area or to Piedras Blancas itself. He must live close by, walking distance probably; he always seems to just show up at Kevinâs house. Itâs possible heâs staying in San Simeon or farther south in Cambria. Kevin canât remember anyone dropping him off, but that doesnât mean someone hasnât.
Morgan shakes his head.
âWhat, you got dropped off and now youâre stuck till you get picked up?â Kevin asks. âHow long did you think weâd be out?â
Morgan gives him a noncommittal shrug.
âOkay, you can borrow something from me.â
Should he mention that Morgan still has his sweatshirt? He wasnât wearing it yesterday or today; maybe he thought it was a gift? For some reason that doesnât bother Kevin at all. Morgan looked adorable wearing his blue sweatshirt. Does Morgan have it in his room? Did he keep it because it reminded him of me?
They walk back to Kevinâs house, and Kevin laughs at