blurted out as I left the room.
An ice-cold beer awaited me at my table.
âYouâll have to pay up front,â the waiter said.
âWhat? You canât even trust a decent guy?â
âSir,â he protested faintly, âitâs not that we donât trust you. The thing is, we get cheated every day. Theyâll have two dozen and say it was one, or five and claim itâs four. We donât ask you to pay up front for nothing, sir.â
I paid and got to thinking. Things were looking murky. The consulate would find out about my fake papers for sure. That guy at the agency just wanted to hustle me out of eight hundred dollars. What a bunch of crap. Iâd saved exactly what I needed for a week in La Paz and to pay the airport departure tax, and Iâd set aside a hundred dollars for my first few days in the United States. Before leaving for eternity, my father had given me a few gold nuggets, about ten grams worth. He told me they would âmultiply like the loaves in the Bible and bring you luck.â Instead of spending them, Iâd held on to them, hoping theyâd multiply. But they still weighed the same as they had eight years before.
I downed my beer in the time it takes a rooster to let out a morning crow. Why donât you kill yourself? I thought. If I could just chug twenty beers and then go to sleep, theyâd find my cold body the next day. It was the only death a screw-up like me deserved. The law of life states that he who cannot rise should make way for others. The worldâs small and useless people are better off underground where they canât be heard, awaiting the last judgment. Thatâs the day weâll all be equal. Who was I kidding? Where had I gone wrong? When had I gone so far downhill? I was asking myself these questions for the thousandth time.
Born into a comfortable middle-class family, my father had been an inspector for the Bolivian Railway and my mother the only daughter of a wealthy tin mine owner. My maternal grandfather was selfish, reactionary, and had been alone in the world ever since his wife died young, years before. Heâd wanted for his little girl to climb the social ladder and never approved of her marrying a modest railroad inspector. My father secretly hated his bosses, Brits every last one of them. And he hated his father-in-law so openly that, just to spite him, he joined the MNR * , back then a progressive party with a statist platform that made landowners and mine ownersâ hairs stand on end. I was born in Uyuni, then an important railroad town, along with my brother Osvaldo, whoâs six years my senior. I came into the world in â52 just as the revolution changed my familyâs fortunes for the worse. The ruling MNR nationalized the mines, ruining my grandfather.
At the time, my grandfather had been living comfortably in an affluent neighborhood in Santiago, Chile with a sweet, down-to-earth Chilean girl. He hadnât suspected that the Indians would one day reflect on their bad lot in life and decide to take over the land and, by extension, the mines. Heâd wasted all the money he earned from his mineâs profits on extravagant parties and trips to Paris. He didnât despair when the money stopped rolling in, though, landing a gig as the headwaiter at a restaurant in Santiago, on Huérfanos Street.
My father, on the other hand, benefited from the new social order. He resigned his post as a railroad inspector and got into the flour importing business. We moved to Oruro, and then a few months later my motherâs kidneys gave out and she died before we even realized what was going on with her. It was a terrible blow for us. Flora, my mother, had been a quiet, well-mannered, selfless woman, wholly devoted to family life. She was no beauty, but had delicate, distinguished features. My father, Jacinto, the only man sheâd ever had, was strong and light-skinned, with a loggerâs